Ross of London
Rapid Symmetrical 61/4x81/2
Wide open (f/6.6?)
8x10 Agfa paper
This photo was taken with my C-1, a 21 inch Kodak f10 anastigmat at 2 seonds with a coffee mug lens cap shutter. Since then I have acquired a Packard Ideal shutter. I used Ilford Multigrade RC paper rated at ASA 3. The ortho sensitivity of the paper really added to the image. I contact printed the negative on another sheet of the Ilford paper. I have noticed that I must always trim the paper to fit into the film holders. I am thinking that this piece of junk lens (scratched and chipped) will cover 16X20 and am planning a camera project to shoot 16X20 paper negs.
Dear Mr Gandofil,
I just laid my hands on a nice 18x24 camera.. but unfortunately its really tricky to find film in this format.
I could get 8x10 mags but I kinda like the 18x24 longer look, so decided to experiment on paper..
And so I quickly found You!
I really like your portraits and as I can see, you also shoot in natural light.
Can I ask you, how you do it?
I mean the papers (I tried) are extremely slow, usually I have to take 4-8-10-30 sec exposures.
Could you share some experience??
The weather's cold so I'm back inside and returning to the paper negative game. This portrait is on 8x10 Ilford MG RC, shot with a 360 mm Rodenstock lens under hot lights. Exposure was at f8 for 3s. Developed with Dektol 1:2. It seems that the paper speed with tungsten lighting is a little less than 3 ISO, whereas with sunlight it seemed a little more than 3. This is from a PS reversal of the negative with minor brightening and no sharpening adjustment.
My contact prints onto Ilford MG FB all are blurry. The tones are good but I can't seem to get a sharp contact print. What's the trick here? My film contact prints are fine, but they're always onto RC paper. Your suggestions would be appreciated.
Last edited by John Olsen; 11-Dec-2013 at 11:20. Reason: added data
For sharp contact prints with paper negatives I always make sure to apply plenty of pressure onto the cover glass. Rather than using a contact printing frame, I use a thick sheet of window glass over sized so I can apply plenty of pressure along the edges with my hands. I also use the light from my condensor enlarger to contact print by, this might help in getting a bit more sharpness with a collimated beam of light, rather than a more diffused light source.
By the way, your portraits are wonderful, good work.
~Joe
PS- Since you rate the paper negatives at around ISO3, why not try Harman Direct Positive Paper and dispense with the contact printing altogether.
The photograph and the thing being photographed are not the same thing.
I missed this post - sorry about that....
18x24 is easy to find - but as I don't know where you're located I don't know what happens in your area... (I'm in Europe, and the 18x24 is an old european size)
I actually mostly use flash for my paper negative portraits. I rate my paper at about 6-8iso (Foma papers are great)
If you tell me where you're from I could mayme give you some links to where to fine the negs... (I love that size too!)
All the best
emil
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