Using Manfrotto rectangular plates on all my cameras, yes I've in the past had occurrences of the ballhead plates working loose, but never to the point of worrying about having the camera fall off.
The best fix (at least in my opinion) is simply a drop of removeable LocTite (blue).
As I have more than one camera which shares the same tripods, cannot imagine the inconveniences of not using quick release heads.
Glenn
I use Bogen/Manfrotto hex plates. There are two types: one with additional anchor screws and one without. The one with the anchor screws needs a coin or screwdriver to fasten the main screw, and then the other screws are tightened down. The one without the anchor screws has a huge wheel on it to lock down the plate.
I have two tripods, one with a ball head and one with a pan head, and four cameras which use the same plates. I like the system, so I'm sticking with it.
Yes, the 3047 plates have hard rubber that can slip and I've had cameras turn and loosen. With a wood base view camera it's worse, with a solid aluminum plate it's even more of a problem, there is nothing to grip onto. I use the head with a Calumet C1 and what I've done is to purchase a dedicated plate and use the 3/8" for the main and amazingly the 1/4" lines up with the 1/4" hold in the camera base. There is absolutely no slip in it now.
I've used RRS plates on four different field cameras and never had one budge. I start with solvent-cleaned dry threads and then use LocTite Blue (as Glenn recommends); I torque the hell out of the screw and then never touch it again.
I use the Manfrotto hex plates and routinely drill and tap extra holes for rotation stops of various sorts. That covers the DSLR, P67 and Gowland Pocket. The Sinar and B&J are bolted directly to a couple of old Gitzo heads. I've got a long Manfrotto plate meant for movie equipment but haven't made up my mind on it yet as it isn't as wide as I would like.
The RRS variation on the Arca plates seems the best QR to me - lots of options incorporating some form of a keystop to eliminate twist. And lots of options for the female receivers. A strategic drop of Loctite isn't a bad idea either.
But it's also kind of a Mafia operation, all of the sudden you need a $50-$150 plate for each camera...
After going down that road for a few years I now prefer and use a traditional screw and am in the habit of checking it before I lift the tripod, before I make camera movements, etc. My camera is rarely loose but it's a good habit I don't want to break.
Linhof and Sinar do their tripod screws right, with spring loading and nice, fat wheels to spin. But the Gitzo screw and cork top have never failed me, and even the Tiltall is fine if not overloaded.
I replace a top on a Linhof ball head, an older model, with cork and it holds great.
I either do this, or mill a shallow slot or recess to just fit the camera base (my preferred way if possible).Originally Posted by BarryS
They are ill discoverers that think there is no land, when they can see nothing but sea.
-Francis Bacon
I'm a true newcomer here. I picked up a Tachihara 4x5 kit earlier in the month and just got a suitable tripod for Christmas. Feisol 3402 with a PhotoClam 40N ballhead (a huge thank you to everyone who has discussed tripods here and at APUG, I would have been lost without that archive of info).
The last bit I needed was a quick replace plate. Based on some positive feedback I read here, I went with the Wimberley P-50. It has 2 screws so it is rather secure.
I took it out for the first time today and loved it. The biggest problem was the torque loosening the ballhead/tripod connection itself. I need to get that screwed in a big tighter but once that is done, I should be set.
I use the Linhof modified to a Foba superball. It is a little finicky to get the camera engaged on it, but it holds like the dickens. I usually hike with the camera attached. If your plates have a secondary set screw, use it.
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