I too use several shutterless (AKA, barrel) lenses -- when used -- simply attached to the front of a #1 shutter.
Thank you for the info. I have a Compound 5 shutter too, but found the sinar shutter more versatile. Sinar has 75mm/3` opening, a bit more than the Compound5. You hang the lens behind the shutter? I only tried to hang it in front, but found the the screw-in distance between front and shutter too large. Behind is better?
The Packard shutters have versatile large openings, but my Toyo frontboard is limited to 5`opening, the best Packard shutter for this housing size is 2,75`shutter-opening, thats worse than the Sinar. Or do I see something wrong?
regards
I am almost done with my Deardorff 8X10 Studio Camera
Rather rare Portrait box, it has OE Naugahyde Bellows, indestructible
Front and Back tilt swing with levers to control them from back
Just made a 4-1/2 Shutter box with 4-1/2" Packard with strobe sync
Added a NOS 8X10 Deardorff slider
I can shoot 8X10, 5X8 with slider
I like4 sliders as the sit ter thinks I am done, but asap I shoot the second
I cannot resolve my failing typing
next life
b
Here is a 4X5 OOFselfies m
10 years ago
4 UP on 4X5 Fujioid by TIN CAN COLLEGE, on Flickr
4 Up 2X3 2013 Slider by TIN CAN COLLEGE, on Flickr
my eyes sail more each day
Tin Can
30 inch and 40 inch Rodenstock Apo Ronars by Nokton48, on Flickr
1000mm F16 Apo Ronar1 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Turns out I have enough spare parts to build this prototype. It's held together by tight adjustment, and it's very solid. WOW it's heavy I mean a real brute. I used Gaffer Tape from B&H cut with razor blade to specific widths, and the lens is not going anywhere and it's solidly supported at this point. Light cracks and leaks around the bellows are pretty much plugged up, so the lens appears light tight at this point. I prefer to protype with various types of tape, before making (or have something made) as far as rotating this into the equipment rotation. This was fun to build. If you look in the back of "Castles in Spain" by Reinhart Wolf, you will see this same lens in use, and also set up. SK Grimes will need to supply front and back retaining rings, I have everything else that I need.
I would love to have a 800mm F9 Apo-Ronar, if I could find one at a good price. Gosh they are expensive! And I do have the 760mm, at F14 it's a much smaller lens.
Flikr Photos Here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/
“The secret of getting ahead is getting started.”
― Mark Twain
Close is better. As for front vs. rear, with a Compound #5 and a 900 Apo-Saphir mounting the lens in front of the shutter is impractical. With the shutter close to the rear of the lens' barrel there's no room to reach the shutter speed dial. With the shutter farther back, vignetting would be a problem.
In post #92 above Joe McGloin mentioned mounting lenses in barrel in front of a #1. I do that too, with lenses as large as a 610/9 Apo-Nikkor, but I shoot 2x3. With larger formats, mounting a long lens on a #1 can give vignetting problems. And then there's the loss of illumination.
Cheers
Double mounting front and rear of the lens is an interesting solution. Can this construction work outdoors? Shurely not with tapefixing, but Grimes will help.
Why are you looking for a 9/800 Apo-Ronar? Your 14/760 Apo Ronar is much practical, I would prefer it to my 9/800mm lens.
My personal mounting and shutter issue is solved and I show it to you. It is also practical for outdoor photography (with a second tripod of course).
Actually I have three 800mm lenses for 8x10 and larger cameras. The 9/800 Apo Ronar, the 12/800 Apo Tele Xenar and the Nikkor T ED 12/800.
But with this choice, I would never go outdoor with the Apo Ronar monster exept for comparative test shooting, Reinhart Wolf will pardon me.
Last edited by rawitz; 29-Nov-2023 at 06:29.
I still need to contact SK Grimes to make front and rear flanges, for the 1000mm F16. Yep it will work outside, I have plenty of Norma parts on hand to build this. The gaffer tape has gone away, that was to prototype and test the idea. Nope I have no need for the 800mm F9, many years ago I was offered the 760mm f14 for $200 (from MPEX), and quite a good deal IMO. Recently I got the 1000mm F16, paid 600 British Pounds. So another good deal IMO I could not resist. This is a long term project for me, and the front and rear flanges will be expensive to complete. But if a 800mm F9 came along for a few hundred dollars, I would prolly jump on it. But unlikely that will ever happen !
Flikr Photos Here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/
“The secret of getting ahead is getting started.”
― Mark Twain
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