65mm, 75mm or 90mm for 4x5 architecture?

[Lynn Jones]

My favorites for Landscapes are the 65, the 90, and the 150. For the f 8.0 100 degree wide angle lenses be sure to "focus in" or they won't be sharp! I have other LF camera lenses but for other purposes.

Lynn

[John NYC]

For the f 8.0 100 degree wide angle lenses be sure to "focus in" or they won't be sharp!

Lynn

What does "focus in" mean?

[mccormickstudio]

John -

I've done some architectural work in NYC and my only comment would be regarding wide lenses if you are doing any interior work. I have used a 65mm older Super Angulon for interiors because of the compactness of some spaces in NYC (small apartments and lofts). I don't favor the distortion and usually end up cropping some, but the wide angle is welcome. Lenses wider than 75mm often present difficulty because you will need a bag bellows and likely a recessed lensboard. Sometimes the short distance between front & back standards interferes with my tripod head in a tight space.

That said, I agree with everything said about the usability of a 90mm. And if you look you might be able to find a decent lens for about $150 - I used to have an Ilex which was sharp, but a little dark (f8 or 9). The older 65mm super angulons (copal 00) are a pain due to tiny size, but also very affordable. I think an ideal kit for urban environments would include a wide (either 65, 72 or 75mm), a 90mm and a 135 or 150mm.

Good luck!
Craig

[John Rice]

Craig, you make a valid point. Most of the houses I shot were million or multi-million dollar jobs, and here in Colorado, that actually buys something.

[John NYC]

What does "focus in" mean?

Sorry to bring this back up, but I would really like to know what "focus in" means.

[Gem Singer]

John,

"Focus in" means no need to focus a wide angle lens at infinity. Focus at closer objects.

Wide angle lenses are capable of covering a very wide plane of focus (depth of field).

When focused approx. 1/3 into the scene, everything will look sharp from 1/2 the focused distance to infinity (hyperfocal distance).

[Greg Blank]

I can tell you this I have a 90mm CaltarII-N MC that I like better in some ways than my 65 SA. The Camera is a Gandolfi Variant which has a seperate Bag bellows, a PITA to change for one lens, The 90mm works great with the Bag belllows but can use the standard accordian bellows as well....with the 65m there is no movement and the camera is prone to jiggling free once set. Everything of the setting is squished down and the 90mm is better cause you can always move back or forward where by the 65mm requires you are at specific place to not be too far away....that said the DOF on a 65mm is awesome.... at f/45.

Hello again,
thank you all for the responses to my previous thread about an affordable shift camera. I think I have decided to find a used view camera, either a Cambo, Toyo or Sinar, they seem to go for very reasonable prices. I will be shooting architecture AND landscape architecture, so I am aiming for a wideangle lens (I already own a Scneider 150mm Symmar). Like the title states, I amconsidering 65/75/90mm lenses. The 65mm might be too wide, and I'm concerned about image circle in relation to shifts and tilts. I guess most 75mm and 90mm lenses have enough image circle for most movements, but I would like to hear from you about the various offerings in 75 and 90mm lenses. And (unfortunately) I can't afford the Scneider XL lenses.

[John NYC]

John,

"Focus in" means no need to focus a wide angle lens at infinity. Focus at closer objects.

Wide angle lenses are capable of covering a very wide plane of focus (depth of field).

When focused approx. 1/3 into the scene, everything will look sharp from 1/2 the focused distance to infinity (hyperfocal distance).

Wow, that has not been my practical experience using 8x10 and 150mm so far. When I focused on anything closer than what could practically be called infinity, the very distant items were out of focus comparatively on a greatly enlarged scan than when I focused on a closer (but still far away enough) point. Hyperfocal distance is a compromise in sharpness at infinity.

[Gem Singer]

John, I don't understand.

I just looked at several 16x20 prints of negatives that were made with a Nikkor 150SW on my Canham 8x10.

I focused approx 1/3 into the scene and closed down to f22.

Did not tilt the lens. Only closed down.

Everything looks blazing sharp from close up to infinity.

[John NYC]

John, I don't understand.

I just looked at several 16x20 prints of negatives that were made with a Nikkor 150SW on my Canham 8x10.

I focused approx 1/3 into the scene and closed down to f22.

Everything looks blazing sharp from close up to infinity.

Did you close down?

Yes, f/22, which is the sharpest aperture I found for the 150mm SS XL at infinity in my tests. I'm talking scans that would become 40x50 inch prints, as that is my goal for some of these images I am working on. At 16x20 it seems OK almost any way I focus.