New user here, I am about to begin a project in C-41 4x5 and would like to do most of the developing at home... I recently bought a barely used Jobo CPA-2 with various drums and reels including the expert drum that accommodates the 4x5 sheets. I guess I am simply looking for some general information about what else I'll need... And some recommendations as to what chemical to use, and drying techniques etc... I appreciate the help in advance!
Been looking into this myself recently. I think c41 these days is a pretty straight foreward process and one that probably pays to do exactly what it says in the chemistry instructions.
I've had tons of lab processed c41 in the past, and the biggest pain came from dirty negs, so I reckon the cleaner the water used the better, and also as dust free drying as possible.
I'm going for the Fuji/Hunt 5L kit for a start, although there is also a Tetenal 5L kit that a lot of folks use.
I asked a similar question on this forum to yours only a few days ago, and got just the one reply. I'm assuming that not many dev c41, or it's just so easy these days because it's just a case of getting the temp/times spot on and keeping as clean as possible.
Personally I'd like to hear from those that under/over develop, and what that might do, but I may have to dabble there myself.
Let us know how you get on please, and I'll do the same, although it will be early winter when I crank up.
Cheers
Richard
I'm nearly finished my first 5L Fuji Hunt Kit-
Yes, just follow the instructions-
I did have to buy a colour thermometer, a Jobo, I didn't think I'd be able to trust the ones I use for b/w- I have three of those, and at 37º only one matches the Jobo-
still doesn't necessarily mean the Jobo is correct, I suppose-
One extra step I've been using, after the stabilizer, I spray the negs with filtered water before hanging in the cabinet- de-ionizeed water is better, but I don't have any of that- the result is less dust than not using it...
I've been using the chemistry as one shot- apparently it's possible to re-use, but seems like there's potential for inconsistency there-
The negs seem fine to me, though impossible to tell without running control strip comparisons with another process, and I don't do that-
After my local lab stopped processing 4x5 C-41 several years ago, I started processing my own in a Jobo CPA-2 with what I consider a great deal of success.
I initially used the Tetenal kits but then went to the Fuji-Hunt chemistry mainly because I used the Fuji-Hunt for my RA-4 processing and liked it very much.
At first I got all my chemistry from Unique (netphotostore) out of NJ. I was having difficulty getting the chemistry from them about a year ago and someone on the forum suggested these folks: http://www.minilab.com/index.asp
They are very easy to deal with and ship the product quickly. I really like the the Fuji-Hunt chemistry. It keeps well and is very easy to mix. The initial purchase of chemistry can be high, but for instance, I am still using three years later my initial purchase of fixer and just finished my first batch of Bleach. I was not aware that it came in a 5lt kit. I get 10lt kits of developer and different quantities of all the other chemistry.
Developing c-41 is pretty straightforward and the jobo controls two of the variables very nicely. I have overdeveloped once due to boneheadedness and the only thing that I noticed was that my printing times increased and my filter pack was different from normal.
Good luck with your c-41 and feel free to PM me if you have any questions.
Call the minilab supply store, tech support and ask them what you need to do c-41.
Some of the chemistry has changed. You can go on line and get spec sheets for the fuji-hunt chem that will give you mixing instructions, times and temps. You won't need replenisher as everything is one shot. Reusing the chemistry is foolish as it introduces one more variable into the mix and the chemistry is cheap enough especially when compared to sending your film off to be processed. The last step is a stabilizer which helps to preserve the dyes in the film and acts as a wetting agent as well.
If you have any other questions, PM me your phone number and I can explain more completely.
Is this your first time developing film or have you done B+W before? I think starting with B+W is a good idea since there aren't as many details to worry about letting you focus on the basic process. There's less mixing and the temperature isn't as critical (you can work at room temperature). Once you have that down try C-41.
Just do a google search, there's plenty of info out there. There are even youtube videos demonstrating how to do it. I recently tried C-41 for the first time and just followed the directions, not a big deal. But there's more chemicals to mix and you have to maintain a higher temperature, so there's more things to focus on. It's easier if you have the B+W basics down first.
I used the digibase C-41 kit from freestyle. Has all the chemicals and instructions for mixing and recommended times. Seemed to work fine but I'm pretty new to this. I just hang it up to dry.
Haha, I can see how it would seem that way. No, I've been Jobo and Tank developing 4x5 and 120 for years now... Doing both standard timings and Zone System development control... However I've never done C-41 or anything related to darkroom and color... It's been built up in my head by my professors (I'm a BFA senior) as being such a difficult, and toxic undertaking that it's better left to the labs. That would be fine and dandy but I am about to begin my graduating thesis and my idea thus far is to photograph 100+ people, paired with a text element...so figure a 6-sheet average per portrait and we're looking at bookoo bucks when it comes to lab costs (not including printing and what not)...so I figured what the hell, I bought a Jobo a few months back, maybe it's time to make that german beast earn it's keep.
So! I am just trying to make sure that I am getting all my facts straight before I order chemicals and what not... I also only have the Expert Drum for 4x5 and in the past I've only used the large format reel so that's another unknown element I must conquer... But we'll see right? Anyway thanks for the info.
Wow. That is still an expensive project. Here in the UK 300 sheets would be knocking on for £900, possibly £800 with a bargained discount.
How do you plan to finally display these pics?
C-41
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