Can anyone tell me the accepted method for determining proper exposure (with hand held light meter) shooting into the light? For example sunrise, sunset.
Can anyone tell me the accepted method for determining proper exposure (with hand held light meter) shooting into the light? For example sunrise, sunset.
I will point the meter into the light, and depending on the effect sought, I will over- or under-expose by about 1.5 stops, and bracket like hell.
Not sure if that's the accepted method, but I've used it successfully.
Also, you can use a DSLR to gauge what the light is doing if you need a visual preview.
There is not a standard, you have to define what you want from the shot first.
For example pointing the dome toward the lens will allow you to take a well exposed shot of a person's face with the sunset behind them. The sunset itself will go very bright.
Holding the dome at a 90 to the lens will get you some detail in the face and some in the sunset.
Pointing the dome at the sunset will get you a dark silhouette of the person and probably provide great detail in the sunset.
If you want great detail in both the face and the sunset you will need artificial light on the person, reflected or strobe or ...
You can't depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus. ~ Mark Twain
You need a spot meter. An incident meter with a dome won't give you accurate readings in this situation.
I agree with Vinny. Can't be done with anything other than a spot meter.
Or as others mentioned, pure trial and error until experienced.
I have done hundreds of sunset/sunrise photos for many years and my method is to measure the sky eV value about 6 sun-diameters adjacent to the sun. That reading (if used for a base exposure) will give a good value for sky colors. Then I bracket in the direction toward greater exposure.
You can also try using a graduated neutral density filter to darken the sky a bit and open up a couple of stops to get better foreground detail.
My best photos tend to come well after the sunset however when the sky-light intensity has dropped off. I especially like shooting when the sky is eV 6 as this tends to be the point where sky-light and city lights balance in intensity.
Cheers.
Bob G.
All natural images are analog. But the retina converts them to digital on their way to the brain.
He's not inquiring about shooting faces. That's what a incident meter with a dome "shaped like a human face" is for. And just cuz it works for you doesn't mean it's the most accurate method. A lot of folks use incident meters because they don't know how to use a spot meter. Using the right tool for the job will produce more consistent results.
A reflectance meter can be used if a spot meter is not available but the reflectance meter will over compensate. Therefore open the lens one or two stops from the reflectance meter measurement.
Steve
Nothing beats a great piece of glass!
I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.
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