Jobo Expert Drum leak repair

[Jim C.]

The drum I have was purchased off eBay a while ago but I never bothered to examine
it or check for leaks till recently, my very bad, because it's a 8X10 and the drum was
obviously damaged and attempts were made to repair it or something.
The empty drum seems to roll ok on my CPA2 but there is a tiny leak on the top
inside rim of the chamber assembly. see dotted line in drawing

I was thinking of using a thick solvent based glue for ABS so that I could run a bead of it
around the inside rim.

What else have others used for leak repair ?

[dsphotog]

I'd first try a small spot test of the adhesive on the bottom.

[mgonzale]

I bought a damaged expert drum that had two cracks in the film silos. I applied JB Weld on the backside and it stopped one of the leaks. I still have to go back for round 2 of repairs. It seems to be doing the job well enough so that I just need to avoid my one damaged silo because of a light leak from the crack.

[Paul Ewins]

I have used normal Model Aircraft cement - the sort that comes in a jar with a brush, not a tube. It's good for hairline cracks because it will get drawn into the crack by capilliary action. According to the jar (Testor's brand) it is Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK).

[Jim C.]

Paul, if it's a pure solvent cement then it'll just wick thru the hairline crack
and I run the risk of damaging the outer shell, if too much of it runs thru
the previous owner left a huge solvent divot on the outside already,
luckily I can position the rollers to clear that area.

I think what I need is something that's gap filling, I know Weld-On cements
has a thick version but it's clear. So far I haven't found any solvent
based thick glues that are black, just epoxies.

[boris]

the drums are made of different part. they are glued together. why not to use the original glue? jobo sells it, at least in germany.
boris

[Jim C.]

the drums are made of different part. they are glued together. why not to use the original glue? jobo sells it, at least in germany.
boris

I didn't know Jobo sold the glue, unfortunately I'm not in Germany
Mr. Blank... paging Mr. Greg Blank...

[Paul Ewins]

Provided the bottom of the tank is still in place there shouldn't be any trouble with light leaks. That style of glue should be applied sparingly - one or two passes with the brush should be enough and shouldn't leak through. If there is a gap rather than a hairline crack then one of the thick glues or possibly two part epoxy could be used. Again, so long as you use it sparingly there is very little risk of deformation.

[Greg Blank]

I've used Isarplast on the same sort of hard plastic the drums are made from, its a solvent based glue. Jobo sold three types of glue, Isarplast, Elephant glue and Silicon for repairing internal hoses of the ALT's and Delkalin which is a black gooey resinous stuff for sealing motor units. I bet the isarplast would be the best and then if need be paint some regular old black RTV over it if you need the area to be black. Isarpast is very similar to model cement, it is going to melt the two parts together so you have to be careful.

& we do have an abundent supply of isarplast at Omega. gblank@omegabrandess.com

I didn't know Jobo sold the glue, unfortunately I'm not in Germany
Mr. Blank... paging Mr. Greg Blank...

[Jim C.]

The bottom of the tank is still in place, feels like I need to glue one spot there too
I'm going to try a leak test thru the bottom slots before I glue anything, hopefully the
chambers are tight since there is a repair in one of the chamber. The more I think
about it the more I want to bang my head against the wall for not examining the tank
sooner and asking for a return /refund .

Greg - email sent !