8x10 Field Cameras

[Michael Mutmansky]

Bill,

You don't say whether you intend to take you camera with you into the field, or just stay near the car. This is of high importance, IMHO.

The reason is that you need to determine how 'portable' your camera needs to be. That is, are you looking for a 'field' camera.

If you are looking fo a true field camera, some of those you mention are fine choices (Canham, Ebony, Philips).

I have a Canham 7x17 (esentially the 8x10 with a larger back and bellows). It is a very good camera, but at full extension (36") it is not the most stable beast out there. However, you indicate that your longest lens will be a 450mm. If this is the case, then the Canham will be quite rigid at that extension, but certainly not as rigid as an 16-18# metal camera. In my opinion, the weight savings more than compensate for the slightly reduced rigidity.

Keith Canham makes cameras that are 'rigid enough' as I call it. He doesn't build a camera that is the absolute in rigidity, so that he can save on the weight. You have to remember, these cameras are like large kites, and even the most rigid camera is going to suffer from vibration, etc. in a wind, simply because of the bellows. So, Keith makes his cameras 'rigid enough' for use in the field. In my opinion, this is the right way to design a 'field' camera.

I also have a Phillips 8x10. This camera may be the best balance of weight and rigidity in the 8x10 market. I think Dick Phillips has hit on an ideal camera design for the field. It is much more rigid than the Canham, and is lighter! However, it only has a 26" (or 21" if you get the Explorer) bellows. Since you mention the 450mm as your longest lens, then this should not be an issue. The normal 8x10 (the Compact II) will accommodate a 600mm at infinity plus a little.

Dick's cameras are a bit unusual, because he effectively has reinvented the view camera, using movements and other design innovations that I have seen on no other camera. So, it does take a bit to get used to. For field work, it's everything that I want in a camera, and is, in my opinion, the best 8x10 field camera offered. There's a reason they don't show up used too often, and also a reason that you have to wait a year to get a new one.

I wrote the review of the Phillips 8x10 Explorer that is on QTL's LF homepage, you should look at the review to get an understanding of how the cameras work. I have recently ordered an 8x10 Compact II to replace the Explorer, because I have changed my use of the 8x10 and I shoot more verticals than horizontals with that camera now. If you are primarily a horizontal shooter, than the Explorer is a wonderful camera and is almost as light as many of the 4x5's out there!

Good luck on your decision. If you have any Phillips of Canham questions, you can email me directly. But, both Keith and Dick are very approachable people, so you can also call them directly.

---Michael

[Ed Burlew]

I have a wisner traditional 8x10, I got it as a dela witht he 4x back and the bag bellows. I am very satisfied. I like the long bellows draw, I beleive this is the longest draw, I have no problem with a 600 fuji for portrait. The camera is very stable when extended and locked. I like the big knobs. The interchanable bellows are a real boon!. I can use a 150 ina flat board but then I am just off the focus tracks, I can do it but I decided to make a recesseed board fronm a calumet recessed board that I cut down tofit the 5.25 opening. The fresnel lense is a big help in fast focusing. this is a 10.5 lb camers , the metal is anodized aluminum instead of brass. I also have Sinar F2 and the Wisner is easier to set up and use, The Sinar is the studio king but I do like to take the Wisner out for long strolls in the country. I think that anyone would be pleased with this camera.

[Natha Congdon]

You have probably had more responses to your question than you can use, but I have and continue to enjoy an Ebony SV810U. I have an extensive review of it on this site. If after reading that, you have more questions, I'd be happy to discuss them by email. After much looking around and comparing, I thought (and think) that this is the best option currently available in 8X10. It is not cheap, though.

Nathan

[tim atherton]

I was just cleaning up the huge pile of papers on my desk and came across an interesting little brochure... If you like the idea of teh Kodak View 8x10 metal field, you can of course buy a new one in the format of the Hoffman 8x10! Not cheap though (+ Hoffman "handmade" metal film holders, vacuum film holders, the 4x5 Hoffman Master view and all sorts of odd little gizmos)

tim

[John Kasaian]

Bill, with all the money you'll save by buying an old Deardorff, you can get yourself a pack mule to haul all your stuff around. The best of both worlds! Good Luck!

[Bill Marsh]

Thank you all for your help.

Bill

[Rick Moore]

Another vote for the Canham 8x10. I've had mine for a little over a year and am still in love with it. The longest lens I have now is a 450mm and the camera has no problems with rigidity, even when focused closely. Of course, I shield it with a large golf umbrella when it's windy.

The Canham design really shines when using wide angle lenses. The bellows is pretty flexible - I've had no problems when using my 120mm and 159mm lenses.

I also have the Canham compendium shade. It's quite light, easy to attach, and very effective. I have the optional fresnel lens and find it is provides good eveness of illumination without being too course.

Once you practice a little, the Canham is a snap to set up and take down. When folded, the camera fits perfectly, along with five film holders, into the inner case of a Tenba PBH backpack.

The quality of the fit and finish is outstanding. The support Keith Canham provides his customers is also outstanding.

My only real complaint (a very minor one) is that the levels are mounted on the top of the rear standard and are visible only from the top. At the tripod extensions I tend to use, the levels are usually too high for me to see.

[Dave Anton]

Hi Bill, as others have said, if you are thinking of going 810 in metal, consider the TOYO. I have been using it for a few years, and although it may be on the heavy side, it is a VERY solid camera. Movements are very precise. I put mine in a Big LOWE Pro pack and I can hike with it quite comfortably. All moements lock down solid. I use mine with a massive wide angle and the lens stays where I put it.

[Luc Regnier]

I bought recently an used Toyo 810MII, and I am very glad about this camera . Strong, steady, fine crafted, very rigid, a bit heavy but with a backpack no big problem . I have also a MF system weighting 22 lbs (bodies,lenses,backs), compare with Toyo : 26 lbs with only 1 lens (of course, you have to choice the lens before to go to field). The main difference is the heavier ballhead/tripod, 12 versus 6 lbs .

[tim atherton]

"Bill, with all the money you'll save by buying an old Deardorff, you can get yourself a pack mule to haul all your stuff around. The best of both worlds! Good Luck!"

I've posted this link before, but here goes - (fits with all those "backpack" threads too) - "The Photograper's Assistant" (as the caption says: http://www.photoartssantafe.com/