8x10 with a V700, Vuescan can't scan above 1600 DPI

[jim kitchen]

Dear John,

I scan my negatives at 3000 spi, at 7.5" X 9.375" and capture the file as an RGB file because of an old habit, and my Epson 750 produces an RGB file that approximates 3.54GB. Do I need a file this large? Probably not, but I continue to scan at those settings to obtain consistency within my work flow. My captured images with the Epson 750 tend to be softer than I would like, possibly resulting from the Epson's interpolation algorithm, but I live with what I get, and the captured files produce brilliantly sharp finished images when I use PS sharpening properly. If I require a better scan, for whatever reason, I have the negative drum scanned without hesitation, knowing that the scanned image will contain fabulous minute detail with wonderful clarity. The cost of a locally drum scanned image happens to be a very prohibitive barrier, and a barrier that forces me to be very selective, regarding which negative I decide to drum scan.

As a side note, I know that the Epson software requires more ram to accommodate those scanner settings within my Mac, because I tested that issue a few years ago, while playing with the 10000XL, where 4GB of RAM would not capture a larger file, but using 6GB it would. The same issue is true for my 750...

That said, everyone implements their own scanning process, and I would not argue that a few methods are more efficient or better, but I do what I do, because I am used to my own work flow, while capturing a scanned image. I tend to ignore what everyone suggests about the maximum spi, the best settings for their scans, whether it is RGB or greyscale, and not because I wish to be rude, but I have my own scanning procedure that I am comfortable using, and a post processing procedure that happens to be as personal as my finished images. I save the original scanned RGB image file once the image's minor artefacts are processed and cleaned, and I always produce a secondary greyscale image from the cleaned original RGB file to use as my working file, where I press forward to the finished image. Proper digital storage does become an issue, and a very important issue, since I have hundreds of hours locked into my images. I store the redundant HDs properly, once filled and balanced, and I insert fresh HDs into my raid arrays as required. I access any older files, if required, through an external device reader that reads a stored HD independently.

1600 spi just might be the upper limit spi for the Epson 750, where I cannot take the time to explore and confirm that value currently, but I just might do that test later with interest. I am certain that many other qualified users explored this upper spi limit already, while using the Epson 750, and where they could state a definite upper limit spi value with reasonable certainty.

Nice images on Flickr by the way...

jim k

[John NYC]

Dear John,

I scan my negatives at 3000 spi, at 7.5" X 9.375" and capture the file as an RGB file because of an old habit, and my Epson 750 produces an RGB file that approximates 3.54GB. Do I need a file this large? Probably not, but I continue to scan at those settings to obtain consistency within my work flow.

snip

Nice images on Flickr by the way...

jim k

Well, thanks, but your images are AMAZING! If I were you, I'd not change a thing you do after looking at those.

But yeah, that is a heavy duty file size. My laptop could not handle that! (which brings up another issue I need to solve...)

John

[urs0polar]

Yeah, Jim Kitchen's work is incredible!

especially this one:
http://www.jimkitchen.ca/HTMLPages/P...argeframe.html

John, your stuff is great as well -- It's hard to make something interesting out of all the jumble that is NYC.

I need to get on the ball and get outside and shoot

[jim kitchen]

Dear John and Mark,

Thank you for your comments...

The chair image brought many late night wandering folks to my camera location during the late night time exposure, where it was actually past midnight, and I had to place my dark slide in front of the lens a few times while they walked by, or as they stood in front of my camera to chat. Several folks asked what I had in my hand, since it was blocking their view of my camera, and once they realized I was capturing a time exposure image after I spoke a few well placed polite words, they quickly stepped out of the way. The apologetic scenes that unfolded in front of me did so in many comical ways. It was fun to watch.

Every time I see that image, I always wonder how many people sat there, and more importantly, who sat there? The chair has not moved from that location for more than a century. The wear and tear within the chair is very evident in the image.

Again, thank you for your comments.

jim k

[BennehBoy]

2. Tape the negative to the glass. Put the emulsion side against the ANR glass. Make sure you tape the neg so there is no slack in the middle when you turn the glass upside down. Otherwise, you will get a Newton ring in the middle of your picture (see next step).

This may be a daft question, but can any kind of tape be used (scotch variety), or should certain tapes be avoided at all costs?

[John NYC]

This may be a daft question, but can any kind of tape be used (scotch variety), or should certain tapes be avoided at all costs?

No, not a daft question!

I tried cellophane tape at first. Bad idea as it was hard to take off after it was sitting on there a long time.

Now I use that off-white basic masking tape. Comes off the neg and the glass fairly easily. If there is any glue sticking around, it is usually on the glass and I just clean that off with lens cleaner.

[BennehBoy]

Good to know!

[Doug Fisher]

The 3M blue masking tape (3M, not a cheap knock off), is also worth a try for a reasonably priced alternative to the expensive Kami tape.

Doug
---
www.BetterScanning.com

[BennehBoy]

I have some of that - will try it when my ANR sheet turns up from betterscanning. Oh, that's you Doug!

[Jeremy Moore]

The 3M blue masking tape (3M, not a cheap knock off), is also worth a try for a reasonably priced alternative to the expensive Kami tape.

Doug
---
www.BetterScanning.com

There is also the 3M Low Tack Artist Tape which is much lower tack than the 3M blue masking tape.