Non-green glass for frames?

[Brook Martin]

The tru view AR is REALLY easy to scratch, if you look at it wrong it scratches. Worse than museum glass.It is coated on both sides so you are never really safe, as the museum has the coating on the inside once framed.
The Tru-View Conservation Clear is a really good product and is quite a bit cheaper than museum glass and wont have the green tint and is a quite a bit more forgiving than AR. It does not have a non reflective coating though.

For little ambros in small frames a single sheet of the museum glass goes a long ways, and they are so gorgeous under it. I think every serious photographer should see their work under museum glass at least once. It looks so good you will forget for at least a moment how god awful expensive it was.

For any of this stuff, I clean with 50/50 distilled h2o/everclear gently using a kimwipe tissue.

[Drew Wiley]

The last type of optical glass I acquired has a dipped titanium-based coating, and is
actually harder to scratch than ordinary float glass, as well as being about 8%
clearer or brighter with respect to light transmission. The downside of this kind of
glazing, or any kind of picture glass for that matter, is that it is hard to handle in
larger sizes, will shatter upon impact, and does not insulate nearly as well as acrylic. Unfortunately, the cost of optically coated acrylic is really steep - around $550 for a sheet sufficient to glaze a single 30X40 or two 20X24's, and that wholesale! Retail would be at least double. A few years back I did some static
mounting of Cibachromes, which are notoriously difficult to light due to their reflective surface, under optically coated glass. This newer type is even better at
reflection control than the older Denglas, and the prints really stand out. I just pulled
a drawer in one of my files open where I still have one of these framed examples
stored. The superior glass generated some impulse sales because the gloss or glow
of the print itself didn't have to compete with background reflections on the glass,
and there was no loss of detail or brightness like with ordinary nonglare.

[Brook Martin]

Drew, do you have a trade name for the product

[lloyd]

Try here for a cheaper solution:
http://howardglassco.thomasnet.com/v...s-2?&forward=1


these guys are great to deal with. Schott B270 is clear, no green cast.

[Mark Sawyer]

Thanks, all! So far the leading possibilities are from Howard Glass, specifically the 2.5mm B270 crown glass @ $9.50 a square foot, ("One of our largest sellers, it is by far the most optically clear sheet glass on the market. "), although I'll probably give them a call about the Optiwhite glass, just to see what it is.

There's also a local place that sells "museum glass" for $12 a square foot, so I'll look into their glass too. The museum glass I remember from twenty-some years ago had an objectionable (at least to me) irridescent sheen to the coating, almost as if someone had put an oil coating on it. I'm curious to see if that's still the case.

[Jason Greenberg Motamedi]

Just curious, why do you put glass in front of your tin(alumi)types? Once they are varnished they are pretty resistant to atmospheric or UV damage. For larger ones, I really like how they look set into in a glassless deep wooden frame.

[anchored]

Mark - you say Tru-View glass is too expensive... but $9.50 a square foot is reasonable?

If you have the means to purchase wholesale and are willing to buy more than you need for just one photo... Tru-View glass, with the exception of their Museum glass, is MUCH cheaper than that! I buy wholesale through a moulding/framing supply company in Dallas (relatively local for me). I generally use Tru-View Conservatory UV/Anti-Glare glass, buy in 24"x36" sheets and cut to suit. Cost of a box of 8 sheets costs $126.

That's 6 sf per sheet x 8= 48 sf in a box. $126/48 = $2.62 per square foot. And this is for Conservatory UV Anti-Glare... more expensive than standard Tru-View glass.

I also would suggest you also will likely have problems with breakage ordering glass and having shipped. The company I buy from... and other wholesale suppliers I've talked to in the past... refuses to even ship glass. You'll be far better off trying to find a local source and picking it up yourself I believe.

And cutting glass to suit is not much of an issue. On coated glass like the Tru-View UV on simply has to be careful to score the correct side (coated side) and carefully snap. I've converted an old Logan small mat board cutter to a glass cutter for perfect scoring.

[anchored]

And a note about the Tru-View Museum glass... there's no sheen or color to it at all... it cannot be seen unless one literally touches their finger on it.

[Jon Shiu]

In my experience, the tru vue museum glass does have a purple color that is picked up in the reflection of light sources, ie gallery lights. It is after all, like the anti-reflective coating on lenses.

Also, the lower end Tru View glass does have a greenish cast to it.

Jon

[Sal Santamaura]

In my experience, the tru vue museum glass does have a purple color that is picked up in the reflection of light sources, ie gallery lights. It is after all, like the anti-reflective coating on lenses...

The blue/purple reflection color of Tru Vue museum glass comes from the applied plastic UV coating. It's not like the anti-reflection coating on lenses.

Tru Vue AR's hard anti-reflection coatings (both sides) are like the coatings on lenses. They don't reflect blue/purple at all.

Again, unless one is framing dye transfer or Ilfochrome prints, there's no reason for museum glass with photographs. UV isn't a concern for black and white, while chromogenic color paper has UV blockers built in.