Apertures scale engraving --any recommendation other than SK Grimes?

**John Schneider** · 1-May-2010, 11:23

Does anyone other than SK Grimes engrave aperture scales? I just checked and their fee is now $50 for full-stop scales. I remember (fondly, in retrospect) that their price was formerly $30, which IMO was much more reasonable.

**Jason Greenberg Motamedi** · 1-May-2010, 11:35

I ordered a few scales from Schneider through B&H, they were half the price of Grimes, but also took four months to deliver. The next time I did it, I had the folks at Grimes do it. They took only two weeks. Still, I would be interested in hearing if others do this.

**erie patsellis** · 1-May-2010, 16:02

Need to know what shutter, is it linear, a la later copals, or non linear as the older compurs used? Either one is pretty simple to determine the marking, once you find the position where the aperture just starts to intrude in the lens visibly as your wide open point. With the Copals, it's a fixed distance per stop, with the Compurs the relationship is the same, the start point changes. I have a layout that I use to print out decals to adhere to the shutter.

**iozone** · 2-May-2010, 11:31

Please, do tell us how you layout and print the aperture scales..

Originally Posted by erie patsellis

Need to know what shutter, is it linear, a la later copals, or non linear as the older compurs used? Either one is pretty simple to determine the marking, once you find the position where the aperture just starts to intrude in the lens visibly as your wide open point. With the Copals, it's a fixed distance per stop, with the Compurs the relationship is the same, the start point changes. I have a layout that I use to print out decals to adhere to the shutter.

**erie patsellis** · 2-May-2010, 13:27

As a working graphic artist, I use a graphics program to lay them out. I frequently will simply lay a piece of tape over the scale, mark my screw positions for reference, and then measure the entrance pupil diameter and make a mark for each whole stop. then I peel it off, scan it and recreate the marks in a more clear manner. Then I make duplicates on a page, print it out with a laser printer on self adhesive stock, laminate with mylar (for shutter scales, good old fashioned shiny Scotch tape) cut them out and apply, file the spares away in case I need to replace it.

I can send you a pdf file showing some of the previous scales, I keep them all in one layout so I can simply duplicate the shutter speed markings, etc. One nice thing about doing it this way is I can add notes (such as which element to remove for a convertible lens, or filter diameter).

erie

**iozone** · 2-May-2010, 15:34

Erie,

That would be great, I'll PM my email address. What have you found that works well for an adhesive backing and what kind of printer holds up best against abrasion?
If anyone else would like a copy, PM me and I'll forward in order to keep things easy for Erie.

Thanks,

**erie patsellis** · 2-May-2010, 15:52

I use Striptac or one of the self adhesive paper stocks you can find at a local printer. I previously printed them directly to vinyl and clearcoated them, but after closing our sign shop and storing alot of equipment, I found a laser printer works as well with lamination.

As I mentioned, I use Scotch tape or packing tape to laminate, even though I have a rather large laminator it makes more sense. then just cut out and stick. Not perfect, but very usable, and it's easy enough to make spares if they get beat up over time.