Suggestions for info on which 4x5 Field camera?

[Robert Hughes]

I'd probably be smart to drill and lighten the old Graflex Super. I did that once with a Busch Pressman D and changed a 6.5 pound press camera into a 3 pound metal field camera without losing much rigidity. Only problem was the Pressman had too small a lens board for a couple of my lenses.

Ooh, interesting. Any pictures? What did you drill out - the metal frame? Did you cover the holes to keep the rain off, or leave it open for that Road Warrior look? And did the lighter weight make any difference? I don't think my Pressman is very heavy.

[Kuzano]

Ooh, interesting. Any pictures? What did you drill out - the metal frame? Did you cover the holes to keep the rain off, or leave it open for that Road Warrior look? And did the lighter weight make any difference? I don't think my Pressman is very heavy.

Well, if I did it again, I wouldn't drill it... took some time. I'd probably dremel it. I took out two sections on each flat, of top, bottom and both sides. It had basically a ribbed look to the body. Ribs at the four corners and about a 3/8 inch rib halfway on each of top, bottom and both sides. I also did some drilling on the back of the front standard and the base of the front standard.. probably wouldn't do that again.

I recollect the camera (D model 4X5) weight at about 6 pounds before and half of that after. I did not sacrifice any rigidity. There was no flex in the body. I took off the rangefinder and went "commando" on the body... no covering and flat black paint. Left the revolving back. Used the camera ground glass viewing only.

[ignatiusjk]

I use a Wista 4x5 field camera and it's very good the only thing I wish it had was the ability to change bellows. Look on ebay and your will be surprised at all the 4x5 field camera's. Make sure you type in the words "field camera".

[Steve M Hostetter]

I'd go for a used Chamonix for around 700.00 or a speed graphic

[gdi]

The Chamonix is looking tough to beat...

Thanks again all.

[Matus Kalisky]

I own the Tachihara for about 4 years and would probably agree with the proposal of Frank for a metal camera. While wood field cameras are very light (and look nice), it may be easier to start with a more rigid camera. It depends on the purpose (studio, landscapes, architecture) - while for landscapes one generally uses only mild movements, studio or architecture work may require more movements and also more control over them (for example some cameras have front rise and tilt coupled under one control - for example Chamonix first generation). Also - if you are interested in a close-up photography you would prefer a camera with focusing on the rear standard.

As much as I like my Tachi I would swap it for a light monorail (Toyo VX125 for example) to get more rigidity and precision as well as wide-angle lens capability (recessed lens boards are a pain - I use one for the 75/4.5 N Grandagon).

[gdi]

Ok after thinking about metal cameras I have a final option to consider and would like to get opinions as to how much flexibility and movements I would give up. The option is a Super Graphic (probably not a Super Speed).

[mccormickstudio]

I shoot Chamonix 8x10 and think the 4x5 Chams are great, but use a Toyo 45A II (about $700 on bay). Great cameras, the Chams and Toyo 4x5s.

[Nicholas Whitman]

There are lots of good choices. Find something cheap and use it. Soon enough you'll recognize what features you need and what you don't. Then go for your "perfect" choice. If you are going into the field with harsh conditions find a camera with some wear on it already. If you've going to baby it may be spend a little more for a pretty one. Stick with a standard lens board system, Toyo view 4x4 is a good bet. Then you can mix and match lenses with different cameras. I bought a Nagoaka new in 1976 and have used it ever since - still love it!