Chamonix 045N-2: A Newbie's Review

[rupal]

Is there any kind of MM scale on the focus rails to assist in focusing ?
If not, how easy would it be to attach one to it ?

Thanks

[stevebrot]

Is there any kind of MM scale on the focus rails to assist in focusing ?
If not, how easy would it be to attach one to it ?

Thanks

There are no scales on the focus rail, though it would not be difficult to add something like that.

Steve

[mmmdoughnuts]

There are no scales on the focus rail, though it would not be difficult to add something like that.

Steve

Not to expensive at all for anAdhesive tape rule

Hope this helps!

Doughnuts!

[J.Medlock]

Excellent review!

You say that the focus mechanism uses a thumb wheel & worm drive and that it is "a joy to use". Can you elaborate a bit more? Is there some type of resistance/tension-knob you have to loosen "just so" in order to focus? Also, I've found that attaching some type of mm-ruler is really helpful when focusing, so it seems this is do-able.

By the way, I have a Toho FC45 field camera (3 pounds, so around the same weight), and it has a very simple focus track with a single gear -- I have a mm-ruler attached to the rear knob (ala Leonard Evans) and I frequently get slippage along the focus track, making the ruler ineffective, or I have to start over. Also, if not careful, the Toho has a small amount of rear tilt that can reveal itself while using the focus knob (i.e. you have to loosen the resistance-knob while focusing, and this can introduce unintended rear tilt). In other words, it can be a pain to use the "fine focus".

Also, would you say it would be an easy camera to backpack with? My Toho FC45 and it is pretty compact overall since there are multiple pieces to it. It fits nicely in my backpack (a real backpack - not a photo backpack).

Thanks

[David Aimone]

Has anyone done this that has a photo of the installation? This would be along the moving focus bar to measure bellows extension?

New to this--thank you for your patience in advance.

Not to expensive at all for anAdhesive tape rule

Hope this helps!

Doughnuts!

[Oren Grad]

You say that the focus mechanism uses a thumb wheel & worm drive and that it is "a joy to use". Can you elaborate a bit more?

http://www.chamonixviewcamera.com/_images/045N2005.jpg

[stevebrot]

Excellent review!

You say that the focus mechanism uses a thumb wheel & worm drive and that it is "a joy to use". Can you elaborate a bit more? Is there some type of resistance/tension-knob you have to loosen "just so" in order to focus?...

The thumb wheel is at the rear of the camera and easily accessible when under the dark cloth. The access is much easier than reaching forward from under the cloth. There is no tension adjustment or release knob. The screw drive feeds through a nylon guide that provides both tension and lubrication. The focus is smooth and precise to my hand without lash or stickiness. With any luck, this won't change as the camera breaks in.

Edit: I mis-wrote my description of the focus drive in the original review post. The forum set up does not allow for late editing, so I guess I will have to put it here! The focus mechanism is not done with a worm drive. There are no gears. There is a long stainless steel screw that moves the focus plate directly though at least one nylon guide.End edit

...Also, would you say it would be an easy camera to backpack with? My Toho FC45 and it is pretty compact overall since there are multiple pieces to it. It fits nicely in my backpack (a real backpack - not a photo backpack)...

That is my hope. The camera is pretty compact when collapsed (18cm x 17.5cm x 8cm...my measurements). It fits nicely in my daypack with 120 roll film holder and lenses. I am currently looking for some sort of semi-rigid case. The wrap that ships with the camera is nice, but it is fuzzy. As a result, it attracts dirt and catches on things. A padded nylon lunch box may be just the thing.

In addition to some sort of case, I would also suggest that a piece of chamois or flannel be placed between the front standard face and the focus rail when collapsed. This helps to avoid abrasion and to limit movement due to jostling and vibration.


Steve

[mmmdoughnuts]

Has anyone done this that has a photo of the installation? This would be along the moving focus bar to measure bellows extension?

New to this--thank you for your patience in advance.

Now that I fully understand your request, I think it unlikely that you will be satisfied with this technique. The front standard is not permanently fixed to the focus rails. There are 5 or 6 screw holes that the front standard can fit into at any one time - allowing for full extension at one end. So the ruler would need to be adjusted for each front standard position.

In the same way, the rear standard is free to move (and shift) if needed. Additionally, the location of the rear standard is different for long lenses and short ones. There is not really a reference position (on the bed or standards) to permanently attach a ruler, adhesive or rigid.

D

[lilmsmaggie]

The camera is pretty compact when collapsed (18cm x 17.5cm x 8cm...my measurements). It fits nicely in my daypack with 120 roll film holder and lenses. I am currently looking for some sort of semi-rigid case. The wrap that ships with the camera is nice, but it is fuzzy. As a result, it attracts dirt and catches on things. A padded nylon lunch box may be just the thing.

In addition to some sort of case, I would also suggest that a piece of chamois or flannel be placed between the front standard face and the focus rail when collapsed. This helps to avoid abrasion and to limit movement due to jostling and vibration.


Steve

This is a Photobackpacker case for the 045n-1:

http://www.photobackpacker.com/mm5/m...ory_Code=RPT01

Not sure if the dimensions are the same for the 045n-2, or how rigid the case, but I'm sure you can find out from them.

[Steve M Hostetter]

I believe the wingnut needs to be replaced by a dial wheel like the rest of the camera has.
Maybe a little larger for better tension and the front standard should have positive stop at least to zero in with. I find myself bearing down on this nut to keep standard from moving. (takes two hands to screw in)

At least one accurate level is a must for even good landscape photography. I find the "dark" wide angles hard to compose with using lots of foreground and horizon tends to fall somewhat using the level. (my sinar's never matched!)
A measureing tape would have to be in several areas and could only be 3/8" wide to run down the skinny rails.
I think If the camera had more positive stops in several places ,, this could be done by nurling the carbon base where it meets the front standard and nurled where the two sliding bars meet the bed and the underside of the bars. (use the same nurl as used for the knobs?) Or maybe a ballbearing under the bars and small holes for the bearings to roll over.?
As it is right now I feel the rear standard can only be rested in three positions w/ confedence , all the way back to to the furthest position or to line up with the bed or all the way forward to end of bars.
I wanna feel some positive clicks when I move that back and forth. I don't wanna have to read some dots , I wanna think less about the camera.
I would deffinatly pay more money if the camera had this feature but I don't see it as a big deal or major change in terms of labor. I know the design has to be considered.
(fine details)
All in all I feel lucky to own one! It's a wonderful camera and has a lot of potential.

It's a joy to use a 58mm without a recessed board !
steve