Need Omega D-II Counterbalance spring

[picker77]

Perchance is anybody parting out a D-II? One of my two main counterbalance springs has gone south and is looking non-repairable. This is the older D-II type of enlarger with a pair of "tape measure" looking counterbalance springs mounted down low on each side of the back of the machine.

FWIW, I'm aware I can get a new one from Harry...for $55. However, since I paid about half that for this entire rig with four good lenses and lens boards and three neg carriers, it seems a bit excessive to spend that kind of money on a single part if I can avoid it. I'm not cheap, just poor.

Thanks,
Jerry

[awldune]

FYI, there are two types of springs for the D-II:

One model mounts with a single screw at the top of the enlarger. It is shaped like a P.

The other mounts with two screws on the back of the enlarger. It is shaped like a Þ.

I accidentally bought the wrong type recently, sounds like you need the two-screw variety like me.

[picker77]

Yep, it's the two-screw mount type, sort of D-shaped, and mounts on the back of each rail about 3/4 of the way toward the bottom. I'm currently working on a fix for the old one, but don't hold out much hope for it being successful. The strap is fine, and the spring is fine--but the axle it all rides on inside has come apart. I'm going to try to construct a new axle if I can locate the right size piece of steel tubing to make one from. I haven't given up yet, but it ain't lookin' good.

[awldune]

Sounds like you are not averse to repairs/modifications. If you find a one-screw spring, you can probably alter it to work on your enlarger or cannibalize the parts you need.

It seems like the spring tension is very similar if not exactly the same. Besides the difference in mounting screws, the "hook" at the tip of the spring is different. It should latch on OK if you dremel/file it.

[picker77]

I could probably make the single screw mount type work. I just spent a fun two hours in the shop trying to fix the old one. I custom made a good replacement center "axle" (actually, it's fixed in place) from 1/2" mild steel tubing, but I was defeated in the final assembly by the requirement for a HUGE preload on the very strong clock-type spring inside the unit. It would take some sort of factory jig setup to even have a remote chance of safely preloading that spring to anywhere near the original during installation--without losing a couple of fingers in the process, that is.

I have one more idea I might yet try, and that's installing a crank handle on the outside of the unit similar to a small winch handle, which would allow assembling the unit with zero tension and then cranking up the spring preload after assembly. Properly done, it would allow any desired amount of preload, and might work fine.

I realize most people would have just spent the $55 and ordered a new one from Harry by now, but I'm not only old and poor, but pretty stubborn, and I love a mechanical challenge. Besides, it turns out the enlarger carriage works fine with just one spring--but I'd hate to be under it if that last spring turned loose and the brake wasn't set.

Come to think of it... what are you going to do with the "wrong" one you have?

[Eric Woodbury]

Can you add a counter-weight? A cable or rope to the enlarger head, up to the top of the column, and a pulley mounted on the wall with a weight. Just a thought. I've seen folks do this to help boost other enlargers.

[ic-racer]

Good try, just don't get hurt. Eventually something good will happen. Complete D2 enlargers with spring have been given away. I'll predict a affordable spring will eventually come your way.

Here are 2 springs for $25 each (or make offer) and they throw in the enlarger for free: http://cleveland.craigslist.org/pho/1653981885.html

[picker77]

Been considering that idea, Eric--great minds DO think alike. It would be fairly simple to put a pair of L-shaped brackets with a shaft through them and a ball-bearing pulley up there, and run a drop line over it and down behind the table with a counterweight on the end. I think that would work great, not to mention being a smoother and more precise (and adjustable) counterbalance setup than the clock spring thing Omega used. Once the weight was adjusted closely it would give me one-finger control of the heavy enlarger head. Of course, it might be a bit cumbersome if I decide to reverse the enlarger for printing on the floor, but I don't plan do anything big enough to worry about that. If I do it I'll post a photo of the results.

According to Harry, the springs are definitely a high failure rate item. I suppose it's probably mainly because of rough handling, but also the original tapes are galvanized and eventually rust/seize up, or the end piece breaks off and the tape disappears forever inside the thing. His replacements are newly made and have stainless steel tape, and I'm sure are really nice, but replacing them both would cost about 3 times what the enlarger is worth. Kind of like some of the beat-up '92 Honda low-riders I see around town with $6,000 worth of rims and tires on them.

[picker77]

FWIW, I measured the amount of lift required to gain a neutral "buoyancy" on my D-II VC enlarger's head. It was about 23-25 lbs. At 12 lb of preload each, that's why those darned coil springs are so hard to work on.

[neil poulsen]

If you spring for shipping, I'll send you a D2V (without condenser head), an extra new bellows, several aluminum negative carriers, cone, and a base extension. You could cannibalize this thing for a variety of parts that you might need.

As for working on the enlarger, I would think that one could lay your enlarger flat on the floor, move the chassis clear up to the top, and install the spring with no tension.