About a year ago I tried some Efke 25 and found it needed to be exposed 2 stops below the rated speed. I recently tried some Adox CHS 50 and 100 and found them to be much closer and it appears they have a very different feel to them. There is much written about how they are the same film but it did not seem that way to me. Although it was ISO 25 vs ISO 50 and 100. Can anyone enlighten me in this matter.
It is my understanding that Adox is simply repackaged Efke film. For example Efke 25 is Adox CHS 25 and so on.
But at the end of the day there are three different emulsions. A 25 ASA film, a 50 ASA film and a 100 ASA film and each one has its own unique characteristics.
Thanks, I was hoping the 25 was different than the 50 and 100. I find the 50 and 100 to be very similar. The Adox CHS seems to be a little less available in the US than the Efke. Perhaps I will try the Efke 100 and see how I get along with it.
What developer were you using? I routinely shoot Efke 25 rated at 25, develop in PMK
and get incredible shadow detail.
I tried HC110 and TMax RS and got very similar results.
I've shot the Efke 25 @ 25 and developed in Pyrocat-HD and get great results. 4x5 threw (soon) 8x20.
Jim
Adox/EFKE 25 isn't really a 25 ISO film, EFKE rate their speeds differently to other companies giving the Tungsten speed rather than Daylight. In the UK it was packaged & sold as a 50 ISO emulsion, and the other two emulsions as 100 & 200 ISO respectively.
I've used the film since the early 70's when it was still KB24 (the DIN name) in formats from 35mm through to 10x8 and always at 50 EI, in Rodinal & now in Pyrocat HD
Ian
Thanks for all the information. I will give the Efke 100 a try in 4X5 to make sure before committing to the 8X10. But so far I love the Adox 50 and 100. Was able to do a little printing, have used it to print cyanotype, kallitype, and then yesterday some silver. The prints are wonderful.
I first tried the KB14 (now called KB25) as a 35mm film while at University in the early 70's, it was touted as giving Large Format quality with a 35mm camera, soon after I began using large format.
Find your optimum EI and treat it like an E6 film with regards to exposure latitude, over exposure kills the sharpness/definition of EFKE films, although that's less important with LF.
Because these films are poorly hardened they are exceptional in developers like Pyrocat HD,a s you get rael benefits from the tanning as well as staining effects.
Ian
Efke 25 is a completely different film from the 50 and 100 speed films. It has tremendous latitude, but also high contrast, and develops rather quickly. So if you're
blowing out the highlights it probably means you've grossly overexposed and/or overdeveloped it.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks