Sounds interesting, but I was looking for something that would develop in six minutes or less.Originally Posted by Dakotah Jackson
Sandy King
Sounds interesting, but I was looking for something that would develop in six minutes or less.
Sandy King
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efke 25, started using it mainly for price(in 4x5 sheets from Freestyle), but started really liking what it gave me once I got to know it.
developers are another question: having no real darkroom of my own, I might just end up going the way of Michael and Paula, and just contact printing. This might involve bigger cameras though.... albeit NOT an 8x20(at least not now)
-Dan
Currently Foma 100 in sheet with FP4 close.
Delta 400 in 120 with Delta 100 close.
Delta 400 in 35mm.
I think a lot of us use a range of different films, and it's often seasonal.
I like working with Tri-X 320, I like the tonality of FP4+.
I play developer games, though. I am not thrilled with tabular grain, although I have used those films in the past. I like edge detail and what I have come to call "chemical sharpening" that I can get with rodinal.
If there was one thing I would change about FP4+ it would be the base. I would like it to be more naturally flat and less flexible, so probably thicker.
Since no one has mentioned it I'll put a plug in for HP5+ rated at 200 in D76 1-1. I like the 200 speed because it allows me to gain two more stops of shutter speed compared to the TMax 100 (rated at 50) that I also used when it came in Readyloads. When the breeze is gently blowing the foliage or the tree leaves it's nice to have that faster shutter speed. I've never done a real scientific test but I had the impression that HP5+ gave more subtle tonal gradations in the midtones than TMax 100. But TMax 100 was pretty nice too, I liked the way small adjustments in developing times could be seen in the negative (a disadvantage if you're sloppy in your darkroom work but nice if you're precise).
Brian Ellis
Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you do criticize them you'll be
a mile away and you'll have their shoes.
Got "?"
I love these "what are the best" threads on Internet boards. Suffice it to say that (unless you're at the level of Kirk Gittings et al) just about every b&w film made is a better film than you are a photographer. I suspect that a well exposed image of a good looking scene will look great on any film from your fridge.
It's never the film alone, but the combination of film + developer.
"I suspect that a well exposed image of a good looking scene will look great on any film from your fridge".
Bravo !
Nothing's more "best", than starting out with the "best" subject
It isn't simply a question of the film + developer, but also who is doing the developing. I've been experimenting with 35mm films a lot for over a year now. Initially I was taking them to a "Pro Lab". While I was extremely happy with the results I got from my Ilford FP-4+ negatives I had them do, I was never really happy with the results from the 35mm or 120. Then I started doing my own, and I was happier, and the more I get back into practice the happier I am with the results. This is really pathetic when you think about it, as it has been about 20 years since I last did my own developing, and yet I start out getting better results than the lab.
Having said all this, I've been happiest with Ilford FP-4+ and Fuji Acros 100 using 1:100 Stand Develop for 60 minutes, but I also get good results using Ilford DD-X. I'm almost ready to start doing my own 4x5 sheet film.
Which is the best film is very easy:
Delta 100, Kodak TMX, Fuji Acros
best developer is much easier, because there is only one XTOL!!!!!
There's a strong case to be made that TMY-2 is the best film ever made, but film is like sex, or pizza; even when it's bad, it's still pretty good.
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