Improved Seneca 8x10

[Steve Gangi]

I recently acquired an 1920ish 8x10 Improved Seneca, and am looking for info. F or the rise/fall controls on the front standard.... Is this some sort of lockin g control where the wheels and shaft have to have some freedom to move left or r ight in order to lock/unlock, or is it a friction arrangement? What diameter/th reads is the shaft the knobs screw onto? I think it is 8-32 thread and 1/8 inch diameter but have no micrometers for measuring it. I know someone willing to m ake a knob, but it would require dismantling the front assembly for him to measu re th shaft (I don't want to do that). Thanks to all.

[Doug Paramore]

Take the camera down to your local auto parts store or machine shop and see what size nut screws on to the shaft. It really sholdn't be a problem to determine the size of the shaft.

Regards,

[Steve Grimes.]

Go down to the hardware store and purchase one each of all the likely candidates of threaded nuts, such as 8-32, 6-32, 10-24, etc as they may have available. These will cost you about $0.012 each for a total investment under $1.00. The assortment of these are usually located in a display of drawer like cardboard boxes that may say "pick a nut" or some such thing on them. Avoid carrying the camera into the hardware store; they'll think you are crazy and blow you off. If pressed for a reason why you need these nuts (The hardware store guy always has to know why you want them) just enthusiastically say: "I'm working on a perpetual motion machine; let me tell you more....." This response will get you quickly steered to the right shelves without further questions. Then try these nuts on the threaded shaft to see which (if any) fits properly.

[R. McDonald]

Steve,

I'm not familiar with the Senica, but I believe it is much like the Kodak 2-D. If that is the case. The Brass Knob (or wheel) you refer to is screwed on to the shaft and adjusted so that when you push or pull it in or out it moves the pinion so as to engage with the single Racks for moving up or down, or engaged in the double Racks for the lock position. Once this adjustment is made the Shaft is Riveted (or Peened) to the brass knob. There are no washers or spacers between the brass knob and the rack face. I have several originals that I purchased from the original owners that have not had the knob removed so that it is loose on the threaded shaft. You will also find this clearly explained in the operation manual. Most of these units that you see, have had the knob FIXED by some slack jawed slob, so that it is free on the threads and then gets lost or binds and cannot be used, but these Cameras can be a Great Buy. As far as the thread size the previous posts are a great suggestion if your not a Machinist, but the knob is a simple machine shop job (not a hardware store item) because of the lengths of the various shoulders in order to get the knob to adjust correctly and have the right amount of exposure of the threads so they may be peened over. I have had to use undersized taps to get the proper fit so that very light peening will hold the knob tight. I hope this helps. And there is more to the story if you are interested (I may have a sketch of your knob out in the Shop if it's like the 2-D) contact me Via E- mail.

Good Luck

Mac

[Steve Gangi]

Thank you all. I was able to find a nut that fits, at my local grocery store. That and a couple of pennies, some solder and a drill made for a working temporary knob. Allowing some "slack in the line", I can now lock and unlock the lensboard/front standard.