BTZS Tubes?

[healyzh]

I'm not clear on one thing about the BTZS Tubes. I've read that they can be used for daylight processing once you have the film loaded, but based on the video's on YouTube that doesn't appear to be the case.

How do you use the BTZS Tubes for daylight processing?

Thanks,
Zane

[jeroldharter]

Each tube comes with 2 lids. You load the film into the tube in the dark, put the cap on the tube, and then turn the lights on. When you have assembled the tubes for processing you fill the extra lids with developer, turn the lights out, unscrew the empty lid, then screw on the developer lid. The tube will stand upright. Once the developer lids are loaded, turn on the lights, grab all the tubes (up to 6 at a time), start the timer, shake vigorously for 10 seconds, and then put the tubes in the water bath and start rolling. The lights are on during processing.

When the processing time is nearing completion, I switch to a safelight. You could leave the room lights on, but if you are clumsy and slow you might fog the film. Anyway, you unscrew the cap with developer, plunge the tube into a stop bath tray, give it a few rolls, and go back to finishing the remaining 5 developer tubes. When all the tubes are in the stop, then move them to the fixing tray and roll the tubes for the required time. I turn the room lights on after about 30 sec in the fixer so that I am sure to have immersed them completely.

A bit wordy but you get the idea. Once you load the developer, you could do the whole process with the lights on, but I don't want to chance fogging film if I fumble the tube and don't place in in the stop just so. I have never fogged a sheet of film with the safelight on and have never even tried with the room lights on.

[Eric Woodbury]

You can make a similar workable system, albeit not daylight, from ABS black pipe used in the US for drain-waste-vent.

[h2oman]

I'm doing pretty much what Jerold does. Occasionally I fill the caps with developer in the light, turn off the lights and put the film in the tubes and put them onto the lids with the developer directly. Usually I just go with the two-lid method, as it seems to require less concentration.

One caution I would offer is to make sure the lids are screwed on tight. I have had them come off a couple times (out of 100-150 negs).

[healyzh]

My problem is that at this time I don't have a true dark room. I have a closet that I can load the film in. I then do the developing in our laundry area. As such I need a solution that can be done in the light, and the tubes appear to need darkness at a couple steps (which is how I took the video's). It sounds like something like the HP Combi-Plan or a Jobo tank is a better bet for me at this time, even though I prefer the sound of the tubes.

[J.Medlock]

I also use BTZS tubes and follow Jerold's approach -- the tubes work well for me. I originally tried developing 4x5 film in 8x10 trays and scratched the heck out of them.

[Gem Singer]

Zane,

Get the Combi-Plan tank outfit.

No matter which system you use, you will need to insert the film in total darkness.

If you don't want to load film into the tank in your dark closet, you can use a Harrison changing tent.

[healyzh]

Gem,
Inserting the film in total darkness isn't an issue. Though I am seriously considering a changing tent. I loaded a lot of film into holders prior to a trip last August, it quickly became uncomfortably hot in the closet.

The Combi-Plan seems to be the way to go.

Thanks,
Zane

[Brian Ellis]

Each tube comes with 2 lids. You load the film into the tube in the dark, put the cap on the tube, and then turn the lights on. When you have assembled the tubes for processing you fill the extra lids with developer, turn the lights out, unscrew the empty lid, then screw on the developer lid. The tube will stand upright. Once the developer lids are loaded, turn on the lights, grab all the tubes (up to 6 at a time), start the timer, shake vigorously for 10 seconds, and then put the tubes in the water bath and start rolling. The lights are on during processing.

When the processing time is nearing completion, I switch to a safelight. You could leave the room lights on, but if you are clumsy and slow you might fog the film. Anyway, you unscrew the cap with developer, plunge the tube into a stop bath tray, give it a few rolls, and go back to finishing the remaining 5 developer tubes. When all the tubes are in the stop, then move them to the fixing tray and roll the tubes for the required time. I turn the room lights on after about 30 sec in the fixer so that I am sure to have immersed them completely.

A bit wordy but you get the idea. Once you load the developer, you could do the whole process with the lights on, but I don't want to chance fogging film if I fumble the tube and don't place in in the stop just so. I have never fogged a sheet of film with the safelight on and have never even tried with the room lights on.

Actually you don't need the extra caps. I had some and used them for a few years but one day it dawned on me that I could just put developer in the cap, load the film in the tube, and screw the tube into the cap that was already filled with developer, saving the extra steps of putting on an empty cap and taking it off.

I always turned the room lights on as soon as the caps were screwed onto the tubes and left them on after that. In processing at least a couple thousand sheets over a long period of time I never ruined a single sheet of film by doing that. It really isn't necessary to use a safe light, and certainly isn't necessary to stand in the dark until the film has been in the fix for a while as some people seem to do, but if it makes you feel better you certainly can do that.

[jeroldharter]

Good points and that would suit the OP's needs. He could load the tubes in the closet and stand them in the molded tray and then process in the laundry room with the lights on.

I have never used a Combiplan but don't they usually leak? A Jobo on a roller would work well to if you want to process all of the negs for the same development time.