Anyone buy the nice Durst L1840 on e-bay?

[raizans]

Here is the interesting conclusion to that story posted by kpphoto (or as Paul Harvey used to say "...the rest of the story" ):

As it turns out that chassis was toast. I was going to go back and get it and put my Aristo head on it, but after checking out its power supply and control unit on my own chassis it was evident there had been major mechanical and electrical issues with that chassis. I did strip the chassis of all usable parts, knobs, power supply, controller, bellows, even the big "LABORATOR" logo plate. However, many things (like the wheel locking knobs and the cosmetic bellows, the table locking mechanism etc.) were trashed or missing.

I hate to see enlargers wasted as much as anyone but I can say that , most, if not all of that enlarger chassis's usable parts did get recycled. Also, the CLS head and power supply had fried components but I had the Durst schematics and service manuals already and was able to get it back to perfect working condition. (so kpphoto, you were wise to pass on this one )

So, in the end, by spending considerable effort (and a good deal of $$) in repairing and restoring that CLS2000 head and power supply and fitting it to a freshly serviced and rebuild chassis, the legacy of that enlarger continues to live on, now in perfect working condition!

that is the kind of awesomeness i aspire to. too bad i don't know anything about mechanics and electronics.

[Allen in Montreal]

One hell of a nice renovation job on that unit!
Well done.

Here is the interesting conclusion to that story posted by kpphoto (or as Paul Harvey used to say "...the rest of the story" ):

[Jan Pedersen]

As Allen said, this is one impressive and good looking enlarger.

[jbrianfoto]

ic-racer,

I broke the plastic gear that is on the motor end (or handcranc) that drives the uppper part.
I try to fix it, but do you know that plastic gear is available somewhere ?

Mike.

I had a broken Pinion Gear #2 on my 1st L184 (that's the Durst part name for that gear attached to the business end og the carrige arm). Cost me $175 from Durst-Pro. At the time I asked if I could get the metal version instead, but was told the metal version would not fit, I had to get the nylon (white) type.

A month ago I got a second L184 with an electric drive. Out of curiosity I pulled the motor assmeble out and compaired the two gears (metal vx. nylon). They both were exactly the same size (all dimentions) and had the same number of teeth. So then I put the motor on my first enlarger and it worked perfect. This leads me to suspect one of two things; 1) My first enlarger had the wrong type of gear, which is why it broke. 2) Either gear type will work on the enlargers I have.

Hope this helps!

[mhulsman]

I had a broken Pinion Gear #2 on my 1st L184 (that's the Durst part name for that gear attached to the business end og the carrige arm). Cost me $175 from Durst-Pro. At the time I asked if I could get the metal version instead, but was told the metal version would not fit, I had to get the nylon (white) type.

A month ago I got a second L184 with an electric drive. Out of curiosity I pulled the motor assmeble out and compaired the two gears (metal vx. nylon). They both were exactly the same size (all dimentions) and had the same number of teeth. So then I put the motor on my first enlarger and it worked perfect. This leads me to suspect one of two things; 1) My first enlarger had the wrong type of gear, which is why it broke. 2) Either gear type will work on the enlargers I have.

Hope this helps!

It is fixed now.
I contacted a friend with a lathe.
He made a brass fixed for that.
I am happy now, and he is happy with his bottle of Lagavulin

And I guess that either gear will work.

[David Phillips]

It was not me.
But I bought an motorized L184 chassis with an CLS1840 head
3 lenses, 4 mixing boxes, glassless masks etc
The downside: I broke the plastic gear that is needed to lower/rise the head.

Mike

Mike those gears are easy to replace. I replaced mine with a metal gear.
David Phillips

[jbrianfoto]

It is fixed now.
I contacted a friend with a lathe.
He made a brass fixed for that.
I am happy now, and he is happy with his bottle of Lagavulin

And I guess that either gear will work.

Thats great news.....wish I'd had a good friend with a lathe. Have him make a few more, bet you can sell 'em.

[mups]

Hello, does someone know if the CLS 2000 head's pre-heating keep the bulb a little on all the time or if it just makes for a slow progressive turn on ?
Thanks.

[ic-racer]

Hello, does someone know if the CLS 2000 head's pre-heating keep the bulb a little on all the time or if it just makes for a slow progressive turn on ?
Thanks.

Neither. It does not glow and the preheat provides a rapid onset of illumination. Preheat voltage should be about 20V.

[ic-racer]

Just to be more clear. There is 20V applied to the bulb when the unit is turned on, but the bulb does not glow. When the unit is signaled to start an exposure, the lamp gets 220V and illuminates for 0.8 seconds before the shutter opens.