Hello, anyone experienced a 4"x5" LF camera (Linhof Technika for example) with a pano head? I´m thinking in 2 or 3 shots, scanning and stitching them.
Kind regards.
Hello, anyone experienced a 4"x5" LF camera (Linhof Technika for example) with a pano head? I´m thinking in 2 or 3 shots, scanning and stitching them.
Kind regards.
I have not tried, but NodelNinja claims that you can use a LF camera on their NodalNinja 5 head.
Juergen
If you're going to shoot regular panos, get a slide and rotator, or make one. Don't get a 3d pano head, like the Nodal Ninja. The 3d heads are for making mosaics, i.e. high res images made from a checkerboard of exposures. These require 3 metal extensions, and all this extension leads to springiness. I'm not bashing Nodal Ninja. Their products are quite good. No 3d head that I know of excels with heavier cameras and lenses.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
A Novoflex Panorama Q=Pro can easily support a 45 or 23 Technika.
I was not speaking of a simple base that rotate, but a "pano head" similar to Nodal Ninja 5, that has arms and a necessary process to find the "nodal point" of the lens used.
There are two types of panoramas, both of which need the lens to be pivoted on the entrance pupil for the best results. Row panoramas are simply that, a bunch of exposures taken all in a row and stitched together. Mosaic panoramas, on the other hand, are a bunch of exposures taken in a checkerboard pattern and stitched together. For a row panorama, all you need is some way to pivot the lens horizontally on the entrance pupil. So a rotator, clamp and nodal slide are all that you need. Finding the proper pivot point isn't hard. For a mosaic panorama you need a 3d panorama head, such as a Nodal Ninja 5. These pivot on the entrance pupil both horizontally and vertically. My point was that I haven't seen a 3d panorama head that would be sturdy enough to use with a Technika, and that includes the Nodal Ninja 5.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Slightly off topic but whilst on the topic of pano heads, how would you go about finding the entrance pupil when using a film rangefinder. I read the blurb at nodalninja but that isn't going to work with a rangefinder viewfinder.
Hi Percepts. You're right. There's two ways that I can think of. One is trial and error, and the other is opening the back of the camera and using a ground glass and loupe. Neither would be much fun.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
No but you have jogged my memory and I have a focus screen squirreled away for another 35mm camera which just may serve as a GG to do this with a loupe. Providing the pano head can be set accurately then I'd only need to do it once.Originally Posted by Peter J. De Smidt
Dow,
One thing you may already know but just in case you don't, the parallax problem which is solved by rotating about the entrance pupil, gets worse the closer the subject is to the camera. So if there are no vertical objects in the foreground which are likely to show parallax effects, then you don't need a special pano head as you will see no parallax effect that your stitch program would have problems with correcting.
i.e. the normal rotate on your tripod would work fine for a lot of subjects.
I'm sure there is a rough distance past which the pano head would give no noticeable benefit. All depends what you are photographing.
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