Info on Schneider 65mm Super angulon

[IanG]

So far I've not found the lack of movements a problem with landscapes, and vignetting hasn't been an issue with B&W but you'd need a centre filter for colour.

Usually 65mm f8 SA's sell for quite low prices, and an early one in a Compur 00 shutter, no preview lver or T setting should be quite easy to find at a good price.

I also own a 75mm f8 SA which I bought specifically for my 617 camera, but I've been toying with using it on my Crown Graphic for some hand held work, and it's very practical, much easier to use than the 65mm and enough movements for me on my Wista.

In an ideal world the 72mm f5.6 Super Angulonn XL would be the best option but these are far more expensive.

You need to weigh up costs against the amount you'll use that wide a lens, for my work the 65mm f8 SA is ideal, it's extremely useful for shots in tight situations. I would definitely buy another 75mm though if I had the spare cash, swapping between the 617 body and a lens boards to impractical.

Ian

[Richard Littlewood]

I dont quite get this coverage thing. The 65/8 as said by many, will only just cover the corners of 5x4. I know this is a figure quoted by Schneider. and I'm sure they came up with it for good reason, and for a while I took this figure for gospel - almost driving myself mad making sure the lens was as central as possible. But after a while I realised this rather fine little lens could accomodate some movements after all, and I often use it with about 10mm of rise/fall, and I have to say nothing suffers - I've not seen any softness or other nasties. It has a useable coverage a fair bit bigger than the Schneider figure.
Got to say though for regular use it always has its centre filter on.

[searover]

Well, I have returned to large format after 30 year break. Love taking the time to capture the moment.

I have an old Horseman LS with both bellows and picked up a SA 65mm in a recessed board both on eBay. Shutter seems close, will have to build a tester soon.

My question here is mostly about center filters and need... My first decent exposure is attached, fall off is extreme. Taken at 1/15 at f13 (between 11 & 16) with a yellow filter on FP4+.
If I had closed down to f22 would I have eliminated the fall-off?
My budget does not include a center filter at this time, can I make one with my epson printer?
BTW, scanned on an HP 7410 all in one with a Ott light laying over a ground glass covering the negative.
All comments appreciated.

[Photomagica]

Hmmm. This doesn't look like fall off - which would make the corners darker. This looks like fog at the top and bottom of the image. I'd go over the camera and film holder with great care and check for light leaks.

I use a 65mm f8 Super Angulon on a Wista metal camera and concur with the posters who indicate:
1) Some shift movement is possible
2) In most B&W applications a center filter is not needed.
3) A center filter is really desirable for color transparencies.

If you carefully expose transparencies so the corners don't loose too much detail and then scan the images, the fall off can be substantially corrected to in software.

The little 65mm f8 lens is sharp and, incidently, has only modest flare inspite of its single coating. I've enjoyed it because it is really light and compact.
Photomagica

[searover]

thanks, I'll check it out. might be tank.

[mrladewig]

I have the Super Angulon 65 f8 and 75 f8 and use them on a Tachiara. If you're looking at the 65 f8 and have a choice on the matter, get it in a 0 shutter instead of the common 00 shutter. Its more difficult to find lens boards for the 00, and it doesn't have a switch to hold the lens open or a T function on the shutter. You have to put the lens in B and lock the cable release to focus.

As far as coverage goes, they both will cover 4X5, but the 75 has room to spare and the 65 is pretty mushy at the edges. The 65 f8 was designed for 6X9 medium format.

I can focus both lenses on a flat board on my Tachihara. If you slide the rear standard all the way forward I think you can take a horizontal with the 65 without the bed showing, but if I remember correctly, for vertical you've got to tip the bed down and tilt the front and rear standards back to vertical to keep the bed out of the image. Its been a while since I used the 65.

This isn't a very good scan, the colors are flat, but this image was shot on the 65/8 without a center filter on Provia. The falloff is significant, but it can work with an image. I've just printed this as a 24X30 and I think it turned out pretty well. There was some noticeable chroma aberration which I corrected in photoshop.



These were taken with the 75 and the falloff is still there, but less serious. I prefer working with the 75mm. I have the 75 in a recessed board and its very easy to work this in the Tachihara. It was on a flat board for a while and that was fine too. The only difficult part of the recessed board with my particular lens is that the switch to open a Compur 0 MXV for focusing is harder to operate on a recessed board. Its not a big tab like the Copals use and there isn't much space in that are on a recessed board.

Provia


E100VS