Diafine Problems

[Bill_1856]

Because it's a 2 step process, each to completion, you are not locked in on the recommended 3 minutes. I'd try leaving it in the first solution for 5 or 6 minutes, with lots of gentle aggitation.
Presoaking will dilute the developer strength.

[sanking]

You are never supposed to pre-soak using 2-bath developers. With Diafine, bath A IS the presoak.

Nonsense. A pre-soak is perfectly fine with all films, and may help with some films.

What one should never do is wash the film between Solution A and Solution B.

Sandy King

[David Karp]

When I was a kid, I used Diafine all the time. At first I just followed the directions and did not presoak. Than I read a book on developing that I liked a lot, and it told me to presoak my film. So I did, even though the Diafine directions said not to do it. Guess what? Everything came out fine. I still have some of those negatives, and they are fine.

I have used Diafine with roll film in tanks, and with sheet film in tanks on hangers and in trays using a slosher. I always used the following agitation scheme. Agitate for the first 30 seconds in each bath, and ten seconds in each bath thereafter. Luckily, I have not had problems with uneven skies. I have used Plus-X, Tri-X, FP4+ and HP5+ with Diafine and been very happy with the results. I also tried Diafine with TMAX100. I did not like how it looked, but others have tried it and liked it.

[Bob McCarthy]

I'm using D23, not Diafine, but I suspect the same applies.

No presoak, but rigorous agitation the first 30 seconds and again 10 seconds each minute thereafter in solution A. Solution B is a bit gentler, 30 seconds initially, then once every two minutes after that.

No streaks or stains.

bob

[venchka]

The Jobo 2551/2553 tanks are cheap. Westley stole his for $8. Mine was a little more. Uniroller and Beseler motor bases are even cheaper. I have one of each: $18 and free.

There really is no reason not to use the rotating Jobo tanks.

I don't use Diafine. I do use a 4 minute prewash and Xtol 1:3. Smooth ski and water for Arista-EDU Ultra 200, TMY-2 and TMX.

[joeyrsmith]

Thx all,
Used Wallace's scheme late last night and got some perfect 4x5's.
I do believe that heavier /aggresive agitation is needed with Arista edu 100.
Which is the only film I have tried so far. Probably the same for other films.
Presoak was fine, got rid of the heavy blue base dye.
Thx all.
I will try a couple of other ideas to see what works best for me.

[Bill_1856]

I'm certainly delighted to hear that you've got the problem licked. Sorry my suggestions didn't help.

[Wallace_Billingham]

Thx all,
Used Wallace's scheme late last night and got some perfect 4x5's.

Glad it worked for you, now if only my wife would listen and do what I say LOL

[BetterSense]

For those that dilute their diafine, do you use it one-shot then, or do you save it and reuse it, even diluted?

[wclavey]

For those that dilute their diafine, do you use it one-shot then, or do you save it and reuse it, even diluted?

Yes! I have done both... my discovery has been that if you are doing a tank of pictures back to back with another tank, it works to save and reuse it... but if you let it stand for a day or 2, it does not work... or barely works (...there may still be faint images on the negatives...).

I suspect, although I am not a chemist, that the combination of the dilution and, at least in my case, the use of the roller base, causes the chemicals in one of the solutions to deteriorate more rapidly than it normally would. Perhaps someone who knows about these kinds of things would have a better answer. I just learned from experience.

Now I just use it 1-shot.