Thoughts about P&S

[Archphoto]

I checked my compact P&S, a Samsung D830 that has a manual.... a limited one, too limited.
On the other hand a compact DSLR could do.
I have an Olympus E410 (now E450) that has full manual, WB in Kelvin and a lens range that goes beyont that of most 4x5 sets in a relative small package.
I am thinking of an Olympus E450 with 9-18mm and 14-42mm that would give 54-250mm on 4x5 and would cost around $ 1000,- as a set.

Having said that: a small screen on the back of any digital camera is no match to the old Polaroid, (it is less than half a 4x5 ) but it can be a help under circumstances.
A better way would be hooking the DSLR to a small laptop to get a better indication of the final shot on LF, but it would be like putting a studio envoirement on location.

Will it replace a lightmeter and a color temperature meter ?
It can, but it will be quite cumbersome: I did it the other way around some weeks ago where I used my light and color temp meter to set-up the digi DSLR properly for product shots that were needed, so the answer is basicly NO, not for me anyway.

I have to try this when I am back in Holland again with my beloved 4x5 and 8x10.

Peter

[Acheron Photography]

Given I have been using a Pentax 67 as a meter for a while, anything would be an improvement on bulk... I do really like the idea of using something like the new Canon G11 though, given I'm almost certainly going to buy one anyway.

David *who is scurrying away to look at the old threads*

[nathanm]

The problem I quickly found with the digicam-as-meter approach is that the settings don't line up with what you've got on your LF lens. Mine was completely stopped down at ƒ11 whereas my nice glass went to ƒ45 or ƒ64. In my opinion, with a proper meter your mind will be completely in LF mode and not distracted by this other camera.

[oris642]

I use my Ricoh GX100. Seems to work fine unless it gets really dark. To extrapolate the values off the GX100 (f-stop only goes to about f8) I use the exposure calculator that I removed from a broken Pentax Spotmeter that I got off Ebay. The GX100 is also good for a composition test shot for contemplation before returning when the light is more "golden".

[falth j]

I too, have used many conceivable methods for light metering, in the end, the cheapest and most accurate method in the long run, was to buy a modern, compact dedicated digital light meter...

[Daniel Moore]

I wonder if it's possible to hack digicam firmware, ala CHDK, to convert histogram data to a film preset /characteristic curve. I'd pay a neat sum for that utility. I'll post the suggestion on their forum.

[Archphoto]

If you want that you might go the route of theadered shooting, that is connecting the camera to a laptop (10 inch) and make a plug-in for one of the programs.

An open program like Gimp 2 might be suitable, don't ask me to do it for you: I am a photographer, not a computer scientist......

Peter

[Ari]

Hey, thanks for all the input. In the end my attempt at using a P&S failed miserably, because, as Nathan M accurately predicted, I was running around with too many toys, and couldn't focus on the task at hand enough to do anything right. And, true enough, everything went wrong that day, I even dropped my GG holder, luckily it didn't break.
So I'm back to my Minolta IVf meter.
Maybe if I had two assistants (willing to work for free) doing the grunt work, I could concentrate solely on the people in my viewfinder.
Thanks again, everybody.

[mandoman7]

Simplification has its benefits, particularly with creative efforts.

[VictoriaPerelet]

During recent trip to Seattle I got around to take some sample location pics metered with Canon G7 P&S.

Overall setup Linhof TK S, Canon 580 flash unit on ministand triggered from Elinchrome Skyport radio trigger. Whole setup easily fits in Lowepro CompuTrekker back pack. Tmax 400, HC110 developed in hotel bathroom.


Here's example of balancing sunlight/tungsten and flash (hotel room):



Tungsten and flash (hotel room):



Dark basement with 2 tungsten bulbs and flash:



Flash adjusted manually, aperture set to 5.6 exposure numbers picked up in M mode on P&S and directly transferred to Schneider 210mm APO lens.

PS. I've seen some people trying to use DSLR/P&S in auto mode to get exposure - IMHO it is silly, you need to use digicam M mode to get #'s right.