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Thread: post alternative techniques

  1. #3271
    bob carnie's Avatar
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    Re: post alternative techniques

    Hi Denny
    Exactly I use Blend If to isolate the tonal area I want, the paper was revere which gives a real warmth, so I made a negative from only the low end and applied blue pigment
    into this lower range only as a second hit over the palladium.

    I have five more cameras then I move onto the fishing lures and the food series and I will post as I print. These are on 16 x20 sheets of aluminum which is a bit larger than the first round of work. Over the winter I will be moving up in size.
    I am putting my Lambda online shortly so I can make real silver negatives which have huge blocking power and I will up my game to larger prints.

    Bob
    Quote Originally Posted by Denny View Post
    Bob, these are really cool. I'm assuming the second neg was just for an additional gum layer? Did you generate it by using "blend if"? It would be interesting to see the image before and after the second layer was added. It looks like you have the technique worked out, I'm looking forward to seeing more.

    Denny

  2. #3272
    bob carnie's Avatar
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    Re: post alternative techniques

    Here is a good thing that happened today.

    So imagine the cost of 20 gage aluminum and wasted prints.. Like everyone here I make many , many, many mistakes.

    I just put a bunch of my mistakes in a tray of hot water and I am able to peel back all the bad prints and reuse the aluminium.
    This is a significant savings and one I did not anticipate.

  3. #3273

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    Re: post alternative techniques

    Quote Originally Posted by bob carnie View Post
    Here is a good thing that happened today.

    So imagine the cost of 20 gage aluminum and wasted prints.. Like everyone here I make many , many, many mistakes.

    I just put a bunch of my mistakes in a tray of hot water and I am able to peel back all the bad prints and reuse the aluminium.
    This is a significant savings and one I did not anticipate.
    Great, But not as fun as soaking in gas and burning them off!

  4. #3274
    bob carnie's Avatar
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    Re: post alternative techniques

    Do you think that would work? because my pythons are not what they use to be. But seriously I am really happy this is saving me abut $600 right today and not only getting rid of my mistakes.
    Quote Originally Posted by Erik Larsen View Post
    Great, But not as fun as soaking in gas and burning them off!

  5. #3275

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    post alternative techniques

    I think it's great that you can salvage the aluminum! You might be able to take finished work off the aluminum also if you would like to mount them on some other material for display?
    I have no idea if burning would work but it sounds fun to try, just being a smart ass is all.

  6. #3276
    bob carnie's Avatar
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    Re: post alternative techniques

    Some adhesives come off with some sort of a mineral oil so not so crazy idea about gasoline.

    there is a hot adhesive that comes off with different temp but my limited experience with this had show poor results with normal hot tissue, and poor results with cheap cold adhesive, the stuff I use does get through three or four wettings .
    I will try a different adhesive with temp changes sometime in the future.

    I tried Potassium dichromate with poor results and am back to ammonium dichromate. I am still getting the circular swirly's , I have got it down to two reasons.

    Face up development, or old Arches Platine with poor sizing internally.. I am going to switch to COT320 to eliminate one aspect and I am also going to try some face down development , I will need some heavy support within the tray to hold the aluminum up but also under the water line.

    I I can solve this issue I am a much happier camper.
    Quote Originally Posted by Erik Larsen View Post
    I think it's great that you can salvage the aluminum! You might be able to take finished work off the aluminum also if you would like to mount them on some other material for display?
    I have no idea if burning would work but it sounds fun to try, just being a smart ass is all.

  7. #3277

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    post alternative techniques

    Quote Originally Posted by bob carnie View Post
    Some adhesives come off with some sort of a mineral oil so not so crazy idea about gasoline.

    there is a hot adhesive that comes off with different temp but my limited experience with this had show poor results with normal hot tissue, and poor results with cheap cold adhesive, the stuff I use does get through three or four wettings .
    I will try a different adhesive with temp changes sometime in the future.

    I tried Potassium dichromate with poor results and am back to ammonium dichromate. I am still getting the circular swirly's , I have got it down to two reasons.

    Face up development, or old Arches Platine with poor sizing internally.. I am going to switch to COT320 to eliminate one aspect and I am also going to try some face down development , I will need some heavy support within the tray to hold the aluminum up but also under the water line.

    I I can solve this issue I am a much happier camper.
    It must be the sizing giving you the swirlies? I can't really think of another good reason why you get those? For face down development with aluminum mounted prints I use the ~1 inch square by ~12 inch lengths of solid
    plastic that are used to hold down my prints in the print washer. I just lay them in the tray and place the aluminum on them at the edges of the aluminum. If you use a more flexible aluminum you may need bigger/taller supports if the aluminum sags in the middle to keep the print from touching the bottom of the tray in the middle?

  8. #3278
    bob carnie's Avatar
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    Re: post alternative techniques

    What paper are you using. I do not use sizing in my workflow, arches is supposed to be already sized and the aluminum is to stop shrinkage.
    This circular pattern is really screwing up my workflow, as it just basically ruins all the good work before it.


    I like your idea about solid plastic , no floating issue with them?
    If I got into very large prints I could see sagging but at 16 x20 and smaller no issues, I will give this a try.
    Quote Originally Posted by Erik Larsen View Post
    It must be the sizing giving you the swirlies? I can't really think of another good reason why you get those? For face down development with aluminum mounted prints I use the ~1 inch square by ~12 inch lengths of solid
    plastic that are used to hold down my prints in the print washer. I just lay them in the tray and place the aluminum on them at the edges of the aluminum. If you use a more flexible aluminum you may need bigger/taller supports if the aluminum sags in the middle to keep the print from touching the bottom of the tray in the middle?

  9. #3279

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    Re: post alternative techniques

    Hi Bob, I use platine as well but I do size after the pt/pd print with gamblin pva 1+2. It must be frustrating to deal with the swirlies! I just can't imagine any other reason they occur. Hopefully a face down development will fix your woes and the paper is just fine

  10. #3280
    bob carnie's Avatar
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    Re: post alternative techniques

    I will give the sizing a try again, at 16$ a sheet the Arches is pricey I think I can get Hannamuhle Platinum for less.

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