One more Jobo question

[Ari]

Hi all,
I've been scanning this site for a while and haven't found exactly what I'm looking for, so excuse me if this has been discussed ad nauseum. I'm quite new to processing with the Jobo, and don't have a motor for it.
I use a Jobo 2551 tank and two 4x5 reels to process 12 sheets of film; I first used hand inversion (came out fine, but too much chemistry required), and last time I hand-rolled the tank. I did this by filling my sink with enough water to keep the tank bouyant, and gently, but constantly, rolled the tank against the sink edge.
My question is, should I be constantly rotating the tank for the entire development/stop/fix period, or do you roll a few seconds of each minute?
I am getting a lot of contrast buildup as a result of constant rotation, but I suppose if I rest the drum for part of each minute some areas will get more development than others.
I like dense negatives, but this is too much.
I've got T-Max 400 (EI 200) processed in HC-110 (50mL syrup to 1550 mL water) at 24C for 9 minutes.
Thanks for any advice.

[Ron Marshall]

I used HC-110 for inversion processing and was very happy with the results. But when I switched to rotary processing, using Jobo Expert drums, I found that even with higher dilutions I had to use very short processing times to achieve the desired contrast. I then switched to XTOL and have been very satified with the results.

[Jan Pedersen]

Ari, If you don't use enough developer to completely cover the film you will need constant agitation otherwise you will get uneven developement.
Try to cut back your time or reduce the temperature, HC110 is known to build density pretty quick.
Look for a Beseler motor base, so much easier than hand rolling.

[Lenny Eiger]

If its too contrasty, do it for less time. I think the Jobo idea of using less developer to develop adds a variable in there that is inherently foolish. Most developers are pretty cheap, including HC-110, and the developing errors that not enough developer can cause are disastrous.

[Ari]

Thanks to all for your answers, I will reduce the developing time. The negs are all evenly developed, so no problem there. They look good, but are just too contrasty for my cold light head, so you are all probably right, less time and/or temperature.

My question is still out there, though: with hand rolling, do I keep rolling the drum constantly throughout developer/stop/fix or not?

Thanks again

[Ben Hopson]

Like Jan said, there has to be enough developer, fixer etc. to completely cover the film before you can safely pause the agitation, hand rolling, of the tank. To leave film not covered with chemistry would be asking for disastrous results. Continue constant rolling and adjust the temp or time as suggested above.

The Beseler or Unicolor motor base would be good for rolling the drum, but you will still have to make adjustments to get the results you are looking for.

Ben

[Ari]

Excellent; thank you.
This site is fantastic; keep up the great commentary, everyone.