Sound Proof Darkroom

[bob carnie]

Hi Folks

I am about to redesign my darkroom , we are moving it to a larger space and I hope it will be one of the last times that I have to move the gear.
This sucker will be humidity and temp controlled to make life easier for alternative printing, as well a huge ventilation device running overtop the sink.

Currently my neighbors dislike my music and how loud I play it , but it relaxes me and helps me move the large trays along.

I need sources for sound proofing material for walls and ceiling.
The walls are pretty easy as I am sure I can find the right stuff at home depot

but

The darkroom is around 700 sqft, a problem area is the ceiling as there is a skylight above which makes it problematic to hang a proper drop ceiling as there is only air to the roof which is around 16ft then the large skylight.
I do not plan to take the walls to the roof as we want to take advantage of the skylight and as well be able to make the roof or ceiling of the darkroom look pleasing as it will be smack dab in the middle of the Lab.
Anything used for soundproofing will need to be lightweight as I have used a light weight black vinal before to light tight dark halls but the soundproof material needs to be lightweight and able to be attached somehow to the ceiling.
I think I have figured a way to secure the ceiling but now I need the lightweight materials.

Any ideas on light blocking material and sound proofing materials would be greatly appreciated.

[Deane Johnson]

These questions come up often on home theater type forums.

It takes heavy mass to stop sound. Double wall board is often used. Bass is almost impossible to stop. Soft and light materials have almost no effect on sound transmission.

Have you considered ear phones and an iPod?

[Gem Singer]

Bob,

Purchase a set of Bose headphones. Listen to your music at a volume that pleases
you and avoid an expensive solution to a simple problem.

Or, listen to your music on an iPod.

Making a darkroom light proof can be a huge undertaking. Why complicate it by trying to make it sound proof too?

[Gem Singer]

Deane types faster than me. In fact, everybody types faster.

[bob carnie]

Not a bad solution, but I also print by direction and most of my clients will endure my music, some even approve.
Hard to share the headphones.
Just heard about a product called Sonoflex , at the home depot may look into that.

Bob,

Purchase a set of Bose headphones. Listen to your music at a volume that pleases
you and avoid an expensive solution to a simple problem.

Or, listen to your music on an iPod.

Making a darkroom light proof can be a huge undertaking. Why complicate it by trying to make it sound proof too?

[aduncanson]

Some of the most effective soundproofing materials use a thin lead foil, perhaps suspended in a urathane foam on both sides. I would not expect it to be either terribly affordable or lightweight. Here is a highly effective lead foil at 2 lbs and $8.21 per square foot.

http://www.soundaway.com/Lead_Barrier_Plus_p/11202.htm

If you were to surround your darkroom with a material like that then the doors and ventilation would likely become the most significant source of noise escaping and require special treatment for truly effective noise control.

[bob carnie]

Expensive but quite nice product , there is a 1lb but no price. This stuff looks like it can handle Guns&Roses with no problem, the 2lb looks rated for Mettalica.
thanks for the link.

Some of the most effective soundproofing materials use a thin lead foil, perhaps suspended in a urathane foam on both sides. I would not expect it to be either terribly affordable or lightweight. Here is a highly effective lead foil at 2 lbs and $8.21 per square foot.

http://www.soundaway.com/Lead_Barrier_Plus_p/11202.htm

If you were to surround your darkroom with a material like that then the doors and ventilation would likely become the most significant source of noise escaping and require special treatment for truly effective noise control.

[William McEwen]

OK, Bob, like so many others here, I'm going to make a few statements and not answer your questions!

1. Music: Do you enlarge or contact print? Seems to me music played at a rip-roarin' high volume would make the enlarger vibrate and adversely affect print sharpness.

2. Sound-Proof. Do you really want a sound proof darkroom? Personally, I want don't want any barriers to prevent me from hearing what might be going on in the house -- If the house is on fire, I want to be able to hear Sheryl yelling "get out!" and if a pipe bursts and I slip and fall on water, I want Sheryl to be able to hear my cries for help!

[bob carnie]

Hi William

I have concrete Floors, most of my work is done on a 11x14 deverre or 8x10 durst(these suckers are heavy , just like the music, All the 4x5's are stabalized to the 3/4 ply on studs. I can hang off my 4x5's .

This Darkroom will be smack dab in the middle of our Lab which is pretty secure. With smoke and sprinkler systems.
All the plumbing is within the darkroom itself.

Not to mention if I slip and fall and kill myself my wife and Kevin my business partners stand to make a few bucks.

OK, Bob, like so many others here, I'm going to make a few statements and not answer your questions!

1. Music: Do you enlarge or contact print? Seems to me music played at a rip-roarin' high volume would make the enlarger vibrate and adversely affect print sharpness.

2. Sound-Proof. Do you really want a sound proof darkroom? Personally, I want don't want any barriers to prevent me from hearing what might be going on in the house -- If the house is on fire, I want to be able to hear Sheryl yelling "get out!" and if a pipe bursts and I slip and fall on water, I want Sheryl to be able to hear my cries for help!

[Drew Wiley]

I have frequently worked with acoustic engineers. Forget places like Home Depot.
Cheap soundboard like Homasote can easily control sound, but it also is quite hydroscopic and would probably rot to shreds unless your darkroom was very well
ventilated and all the wall coated with enamel paint or waterproof panels, in which
case the soundboard wouldnt't work! And any interception in the system like the
mandatory ventilation ports will allow the sound outside. Acoustic drywall works much
better, but you're talking a formal system of installation, and the kind of adolescent
baboons who work at Cheapo Depot wouldn't have a clue what you're talking about.
I personally used R-23 insulation with 2x6 studs, clad with fiber-cement siding outside,
and a big exterior-mounted squirrel-cage fan to pull (not push) the air. Quite inside
the room, always comfortable temp, and relatively quiet to the neighbors too. But if
you want loud muic too, you take your chances! I've been involved in the design of
quite a few professional sound rooms, and all it takes is one significant breach in the
system and it's like sticking a pin in a baloon. And if you put enough bends and
corrugations etc into your air ducts in order to reduce sound transmission, you're only
going to cripple the ability to efficiently extract fumes and draw in replacement air.