Anyone ever plumb one of these for countertop use?
This unit has a 3/4" drain hole with a stopper. I'd like to attach a tube with a clamp. The hole is not threaded and access to the hole from the inside is limited. Ideas?
Anyone ever plumb one of these for countertop use?
This unit has a 3/4" drain hole with a stopper. I'd like to attach a tube with a clamp. The hole is not threaded and access to the hole from the inside is limited. Ideas?
The Zone VI print washer that I formerly owned had a fill tube that entered through a threaded attachment at the top of one end and a large drain tube that drained the overflow from the top of the other end. These inlet and outlet openings were designed to be permanently plumbed by means of the proper attachments, allowing the washer to be placed outside of the sink
However, the rubber stopper was used to empty the entire washer from the bottom. It wasn't meant to be plumbed into a drain.
Locate the washer next to a sink. Then,when you need to drain the entire washer, pull the stopper and allow the water to empty into the sink.
No sink available? Either use a bucket, or don't drain the water out between usages.
Here's a record photo I made of the wet side of the darkroom I once had. At the far right are two Zone VI print washers. You can see how the overflow drains are plumbed. The rubber stoppers at the bottom are still in place. To empty the washers into the sink I used a transfer pump on an electric drill. This was occasionally necessary in order to clean the washers.
Mine's on the countertop.
I got a longer piece of hose for the large drain hose to get it into the sink, which is nearby. Available at the hardware store or Home Depot, etc.
Another piece of 1/2 inch hose lives nearby. When I need to drain it, I stick the 1/2 inch into the washer down to the bottom, give a good suck on the other end, which is over the sink, and the water starts to drain. Sink is lower than the bottom of the washer, so all drains out.
The stopper, therefore, never leaves its hole. From time to time I'll wash everything in the sink, and re-install it on the countertop. This arrangement has worked well for ten years now.
Last edited by Bruce Barlow; 29-Jun-2009 at 19:50. Reason: kant spel.
Bruce Barlow
author of "Finely Focused" and "Exercises in Photographic Composition"
www.brucewbarlow.com
Get a piece of plexi glass threaded to take a pipe fitting and glue it to the side of the washer with plastic glue. Attach the fitting and hose.
Richard T Ritter
www.lg4mat.net
Thanks for the responses.
I've found it necessary to completely drain my print washers after each use; otherwise I get a buildup of gunk on the bottom, this even though I filter the water. I only use it once or twice a week.
Found this at US Plastics; we'll see if it works:
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/sea...p?search=64126
Thanks Richard now there's a good idea
I found marvelous stuff for plumbing things in the lab at a local hydroponics shop.
Hey Wil,
Your photo shows the method you used to plumb the overflows, but it does not show how you plumbed the intakes.
My Zone VI washer had the intake tube at the top of the opposite end. I don't see where yours is attached. Perhaps those trays on the top are blocking the view.
Yes, too much junk in the way! The intakes are plumbed off a wye connector coming off the temperature controller on the right. I reverted the photo back to its original form so you can see. I think in the future I'll follow Richard's advice to plumb the bottom drains. A transfer pump works, but there's nothing like simply opening a valve. Having the washer plumbed on a counter top sure beats having it take up space in a sink. And not all sink bottoms may be supported adequately for the weight a filled print washer presents. It was overkill, but the table under those washers in the photo was formerly a drill press stand from Mare Island shipyard and was made from 1/2-inch steel. Unfortunately it had to stay in California when I left. I sure do miss that darkroom...
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