Southeast Utah

[John Jarosz]

This is all good stuff you're all writing. I have thought about Goblin Valley.

Interesting that Moab is getting crowded. Is it as bad as Durango? I couldn't believe how big that town got.

Two votes for staying in Bluff as opposed to Mexican Hat. Is that because Bluff is so good or is Mexican Hat bad?

I photograph things that interest me visually. So it depends on what things look like when I'm there. I'll take a landscape if I like it, rocks, junk, maybe even people. I'm not trying to duplicate any photos I've seen, that's not my thing. I don't have a photographic agenda, so maybe that's what's difficult for you to relate to in terms of discussing where to go etc. Abstract I know. I don't want crowds, or a managed approach. More like a shotgun approach. My idea is to have a lot of options so that if something isn't right for a photo, I can move on. It's about photography but it's also about a journey and being on the road.

The internet is kind of amazing in that one can find out so much about these remote spots. But, at the same time, I get to read all these lame reviews of restaurants (even the Cow Canyon Cafe) on how the salad wasn't perfect or they only had one kind of wine by people who have no idea where they are or what life is like where they are at..

Bisti Badlands sounds interesting, I'll investigate that as well.

john

[Duane Polcou]

Knowing what I know about SE Utah (20+trips), with your time frame, and with the desire to avoid crowds, I would

1. Hire a guide in Monument Valley definitely. You can access Hunt's Mesa, etc, and avoid crowds.

2. Drive to the Needles District in Canyonlands NP and day hike into Chesler Park. Some of the most exquisite Canyonlands scenery with medium level effort.

3. Day hike to some lesser known arches in Arches NP, like Eye of the Whale. Courthouse Wash, although it can get tourist-y, has some beautiful formations. See Steve Mulligan's LF Black and White book Courthouse Wash.

4. Day hike in Negro Bill Canyon, about 20 min out of Moab. Sort of a local best kept secret . Most mountain bikers hit Slickrock Trail so this canyon can be quieter and has some beautiful erosional features and desert varnish.

Just my dos pesos.

[knoche]

I'll add my vote for Bluff as a place to stay over Mexican Hat.
Some other random thoughts...
I would tend to suggest you just skip Monument Valley and Canyon De Chelly if you are not going with a guide. It is technically illegal for any non-Navajo to be anywhere on the reservation with out a guide except on major highways. And as has been suggested the guides are often helpful and can take you some great places. No guide, not much interesting to see.
While I am not a huge fan of Goblin Valley itself (there are some pretty interesting things to image there though) I do really like the slot canyons just to the west of there (if you have 4x4 and it doesn't rain). Take wild horse road west and south...

I am a huge fan of Capitol Reef and Canyonlands. You could spend years...

Along 191 there is Flat Iron road that ends a reasonable overlook as does the Needles Overlook road an not far off the highway.

Of course Islands in the Sky is pretty cool especially along the White Rim road. Take 279 south just before you get to Arches.
Of course there are lots of things in Arches. You could easily spend weeks there.

When you leave Moab take 128 along the Colorado as an alternative way to get up to I70.

[Eric Leppanen]

I gather from your posts that your visit will take place within the next few weeks. If so, the Colorado Plateau can be very windy during May, so I suggest taking a smaller, more wind-proof camera system for those occasions where shooting ULF is not feasible.

In my experience, staying at Mexican Hat means staying at the San Juan Inn (http://www.sanjuaninn.net/index.aspx). The rooms are tolerable (one star rating with AAA) and the food is OK, and the location (overseeing the Little Colorado river) is picturesque. But staying at Bluff or Blanding definitely gives you more upscale lodgings and more options.

The tourist season in Moab starts at the beginning of March and lasts through Labor Day. Weekends are crowded, and you may have some difficulty finding a hotel room unless you make advance reservations (weekdays should be fine).

It sounds like you want to hit as many locations as possible, so the route itinerary you have selected seems good in this regard. Bisti requires hiking, and is probably not all that compatible with ULF (if you do Bisti, you might as well also do Chaco Canyon, which is nearby).

I think Monument Valley Tribal Park is an excellent ULF subject if the winds are not bad, but I agree you definitely need to hire a guide to get at the good spots (I used Tom Phillips some years back, see http://www.monumentvalley.com/Pages/english_tours.html, but there are always guides at the visitor center available ad hoc). Hunt's Mesa is arguably the ultimate Monument Valley destination (and good for ULF, as you are shooting down at distant valley vistas), but requires camping overnight and the ride up/down can be rough on photographer and equipment if things are not properly secured (bring a spare ground glass, and definitely don't use your own vehicle for this!). Plus weather-wise late September/early October is arguably the best time to make that journey, as there is little danger of rain making the road impassable). I believe there is a new motel located near the visitor center that is operated by the Navajo nation, that provides an additional lodging option versus Gouldings if you decide to stay overnight at the park.

Newspaper Rock (on the road to the Canyonlands Needles district) is a cliche, but also a nice, planar ULF subject best photographed in the early/mid afternoon.

And despite all the tourists, there's nothing like the Moab area (maybe shoot Arches in the morning and Deadhorse Point near sunset).

Good luck and have fun!

[Doug Dolde]

By all means get Laurent Martres book.

http://www.phototripusa.com/swb_10.htm

[Don7x17]

remember that hiring a guide on the Navajo Rez is different than hiring a guide in most other areas. Be sure to discuss your expectations -- they may think that just showing you a site is ok, and once checked off, on to the next. And time on the Rez flows differently -- there are only two times. Time to take the sheep out and time to take the sheep in. IF you wish to stay for late light, that may or may not be what your guide is expecting -- so negotiate before you hire. You won't be disappointed. I've found that the oldest guides are often the best. The youngsters (under 40) seem interested in just getting back to the sheep.

Oh, and just stopping by the side of the road to make a picture, say of Agathela Peak, may draw attention that you don't want. Expect eyes on you while you are on the Rez no matter if there is is no other soul around. I've got friends that have gotten tickets from the Rez police for taking pictures along the road between Kayenta and Monument Valley.... Take care

And if in doubt, go to the local chapter house to get permissions. They run on Rez time....not always open during bankers hours.

[Kerry L. Thalmann]

I also prefer to stay in Bluff over Mexican Hat. My preferred lodging is the Recapture Lodge. The owners, Jim and Jan Hook, are great sources of information about the area. They have several 3-ring binders full of maps and photos of local sites (ruins, rock art, etc.).

The last time I was there, you could still drive the 17-mile loop in Monument Valley without hiring a guide. However, you will get an earlier start if you hire a guide - and of course, can also access sites off the main loop. drive.

And yes, definitely get Laurent's book.

Kerry

[John Jarosz]

Don's comments on the Rez police are unsettling. Hmmm. I gather that's the reason everyone is recommending to hire a guide. Back here in the East we have a descriptive word for that type of business.

More votes for Bluff. But why? Is the lodging better or is it the location? I chose Mexican Hat (Hat Rock Inn) because it seemed I could save some mileage as it looks closer to spots I'd like to hit in that part of the trip. Do the locals in Mexican Hat have 3 heads?

Laurent's book looks very good. It looks like everything he does is in color. True?

My plan is to arrive in Farmington on the 21st of June. So I still have time to make adjustments.

I had already planned on taking 128 along the Colorado from Moab to I-70.

All your comments are really appreciated.

John

[Don7x17]

Don's comments on the Rez police are unsettling. Hmmm. I gather that's the reason everyone is recommending to hire a guide. Back here in the East we have a descriptive word for that type of business.

More votes for Bluff. But why? Is the lodging better or is it the location? I chose Mexican Hat (Hat Rock Inn) because it seemed I could save some mileage as it looks closer to spots I'd like to hit in that part of the trip. Do the locals in Mexican Hat have 3 heads?
John

Nothing to worry about on the Rez if you take a moment to realize that things are, well, just different. Its not BLM land. Its not National Forest Service Land. Its not public land. Its not YOUR land as a US Citizen. Its Indian Land. They have a fair bit of automomy, but when things go bad (for you) things quickly revert to federal courts, or sometimes state for simple driving violations. By hiring a guide, you are in the care of a local that knows the laws, knows what is open and what is not, and knows how to keep you out of trouble. Its good business for them ($$) and will keep you out of trouble. Yes, you can drive the loop without a guide and there are a few places, like Ford Point, where you can get out and walk around, but there are more interesting places in Monument Valley. I've used guides elsewhere than Canyon de Chelley and Monument Valley...there are other scenic locations on the Rez.

Don't like the policies on the Rez? Just stay north of the San Juan....its all mostly BLM and public land.

I think what most people are trying to tell you is the M.H., while having a nice sombrero rock formation, is not much of a place. Stay in Bluff, or Gouldings, or the new tribal-owned lodge at the entrance to Monument Valley.

One more thing -- there's a great overlook between MH and Bluff - you'll need a vehicle that is capable of traveling on a poorly marked rough road. Looks into the San Juan River. Its a faint unmarked turnout as you go up the hill after the big wash.

[Kirk Keyes]

While in Bluff, eat at the Cow Canyon Cafe, right at the corner of 163-191.

Don - I like the Cottonwood Steak House in Bluff. Or the Twin Rocks Cafe for a more local menu.

Desert Rose Inn is a good place to stay there.

I like Bluff as it's close to Muley, the San Juan Overlook, Valley of the Gods (which I don't find that interesting - not compared to Monument Valley), but mostly, it's good base for Cedar Mesa (better if you camp at Natural Bridges) and Comb and Butler Wash (only go there if you have a high clearance vehicle).