I'm getting a little tired of mixing powders. I've been using ID-11 and D-76. What do you use and why?
I shoot 4X5:
Delta 100 & 400
HP5+ 400
Tmax 100 & 400
Thanks for any help on this.
I'm getting a little tired of mixing powders. I've been using ID-11 and D-76. What do you use and why?
I shoot 4X5:
Delta 100 & 400
HP5+ 400
Tmax 100 & 400
Thanks for any help on this.
Yeah. I'm familiar with Photoshop. It's the place I buy my film.
Although a powder, XTOL mixes more easily than ID-11/D76.
Below is a link to a Kodak chart that lists developer charecteristics:
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...?pq-path=14053
Ilford DD-X is a liquid concentrate. No need to mix powders.
DD-X is a Phenidone-Hydroquinone formulation. A prosumer version of Ilford's DD developer that they sell to commercial labs.
FA-1027 is also a liquid concentrate available from The Photographer's Formulary. Similar formula to DD-X, but less expensive.
Both of these developers work great with Ilford HP-5+ and Delta films.
Of course, Pyrocat HD or MC are available in liquid concentrate form (be sure to get them in glycol).
Hi,
I tried rodinal for several 4x5 sheets (Delta 100) and 120 (FP4 and Delta 100) and I found the result too grainy for my taste. I switched to D76, as it was said very difficult to mix, once the D76 finished, I may try DD-X or Xtol.
The obvious choice if you don't want to mix powders for film development is HC110. It can be used in a variety of concentrations, the most common is dilution B (1 oz in a quart). I also use HC110 for compensating development, very dilute at 1 oz in a gallon.
There's been a lot written about HC110 here, and elsewhere that I won't repeat, but it is a wonderful all-around film developer.
John Clark
www.johndclark.com
Ilford Perceptol 1:3. This permits processing in Jobo Expert drums, using continuous agitation, when the tap water and ambient air temperatures are very high here during July through September, for times long enough to ensure even development.
For example, to achieve a CI=0.56 ("N") Fuji Acros negative, my times are 9 min. 0 sec. at 75 degrees F or 7 min. 30 sec. at 81 degrees F. Rotation speed is approximately 46 rpm and EI (metered with a Zone VI-modified Pentax digital spot and measured using a calibrated densitometer for 0.1 above fb-f) is 125.
I use mostly PyroCat HD. Mixing powders is necessary to get the stock solution, then you don't have to re-visit it for months. I use it because it's very CHEAP and it is also very forgiving of my type of photography with the antique lenses. I'll explain. I use antique portrait / soft focus lenses. I use them wide open and I use them outdoors in daylight. That means I can't get quick enough exposures very often. The PcatHD is a self leveling developer. That works very well if you've got 3X the exposure that would have been ideal. You can do a pull development and the catechol will get to a certain point in the highlights and level off.
With ordinary film and good exposure values sometimes I'll get lazy or won't be in the mood to mix up stock solution for a couple of weeks and then I use HC 110 dilution H. Very easy. I have one of those little cough syrup graduates. pour HC110 into between the 10 and the 15ml and drop the entire graduate into 800 ml tapwater.
I know it's not supposed to be that easy. Sorry. With the HC 110 I do pay a bit more attention to the H2O temp. I'm not one of the great technicians. Mostly I get away with it beautifully.
I'm using Ilfotec-HC unless I have a very good reason to mix up something "esoteric".
I started using it because I got a LOT of it very cheap, and at the rate I'm using it I will be using it for the foreseeable future to. Of course it helps a lot that it not only lasts a very long time, but it is also a very good developer which gives me negatives that I like to print - every time.
I am usually shooting Delta 100 in 4X5, so I now use Rodinal at 1:50, for the increased sharpness it gives. I am not so fond of Rodinal in the smaller formats, as it gives me more grain than I prefer. At the print sizes I usually make from 4X5, (16X20-20X24) the increased grain isn't noticible, but the slight improvement in sharpness is.
Otherwise I use Xtol for most of my smaller format film.
Keith
In defense of Rodinal -- it never was for fine grain. But what grain there is -- is sharp as a tack! It is a high acutance (I hope I spelled that correctly) developer. I have a print made from 35mm tri-x developed in Rodinal 1:100 -- I showed the spocket holes on the print -- they are larger than a 4x5 sheet of film. The image is SHARP! And from a proper viewing distance for a print of this size, the grain is not offensive.
If the subject has smooth gradation of lighting and tone, the grain "blends" nicely. It becomes very visable in contrasty subjects.
At the high dilutions ( which are very easy to mix), Rodnal is great in a rotary processor.
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