WP film and (Sheath) exact size examples for new sheaths

**David Karp** · 1-Feb-2009, 23:29

"OK, I've got a film sheath labeled "No. 3 EASTMAN FILM SHEATH 6 1/2 x 8 1/2" in hand."

Oops. I missed that part. I think it is a safe bet that your No. 3s came after my No. 2s!

**Andrew M** · 2-Feb-2009, 07:03

Thanks for posting the pictures Oren and David, they are very interesting to see..So different in many respects but also overall many similarities. Its curious how the 'lip' or film channel (as we have been calling it) on yours David only runs down half the length of the side. It perhaps suggests yours are designed to load from the front. Great to see these different sheaths though, they are quite intricate in their own way!

The overall size seems to be consistent and both would fit my holders pretty snugly as well, so I will go with that size I think. Not sure if the smaller Kodak film that will not fit snugly (loose) in these film sheaths is likely to cause a problem though!? I don’t suppose it will as movement isn’t likely to happen while the film is being exposed, even if it does move some while the darkslide is closed I cant imagine that will cause a problem.

David can you check your Ilford film size? No wider than 163.5mm?

One other option I have been considering is making (or having made) a new modern WP back to accept modern film holders...this idea came about largely because I am interested in having an 8x8 format back made, lingering cravings for a square format from years of Hasselblad abuse

so I wonder if their is a camera maker that might be able to make the back and holders for me.

Someone has generously offered me some WP Chamonix holders as well if they are of use to me (if I can make them fit my back), curiously it appears they are the same width and also appear to have the same T distance as mine. Not sure about the length yet and one problem to make them fit my TP back is my holders have a ridge down each side edge (that’s what holds them to the back, this ridge slides behind a groove in the back), but I think that could be added to the Chamonix holders without too much difficulty.

Obviously the later is a more expensive option, and I am not sure I will go that way (would definitely like to have a back and holders made for the 8x8 format though) but is at least worth considering for the convenience of using the modern holders, mainly no darkslide flapping around, smoother pulling of the darkslide, not as important are the lesser considerations of weight and perhaps they keep the film more perfectly flat in the modern holders--not that I have had trouble simply trapping the film behind a sheet of glass.

**David Karp** · 2-Feb-2009, 12:52

Andrew,

I will measure my HP5+, but will not be able to do it tonight. I will be working late and will not be home until 11:00 p.m. or so. Will do my best to do it on Tuesday.

**David Karp** · 3-Feb-2009, 23:26

Hi Andrew,

The HP5+ is 163 - 163.5mm wide. I am just using a ruler, so it is hard to be super precise.

**damiendemolder** · 6-Feb-2009, 02:01

Andrew - or anyone actually - what sort of results did you get loading film without the sheaths? I'm using full plate wooden DDS for glass plate, and want to try using 6.6x8.5in film in them. I have black card to go between the film and the spring, but I'm not sure how close to the correct plane of focus this will get me. I've been using b/w paper (Ilford Multigrade Pearl) so far, but obviously thats a bit thicker and stiffer. Do you think I can get away just loading the film with no sheath?

**Andrew M** · 6-Feb-2009, 06:48

Perfectly good results Damien, I am not sure if it is as easy using DDS holders, but using the bookform holders it is quite straight forward. open the holder, like a book, place the film in first, Ilford or home cut film sits on the ridges/shelf around the edge of the holder, and then place a sheet of glass (or glass subsitute) trapping the film in place. Using this method the film is in exactly the same place (plane of focus) as dry plate film. I would of simply continued to do it this way except the Tmax film is cut smaller and falls through. Hence my reason for sheaths now. I havnt seen up close how the DDS dry plate holders load glass plate film so I am not sure exactly if this would work the same...but it stands to reason that glass must be able to be loaded into them so i suspect a simular method should work. Just placing film in without board or backing of some kind around 2mm (thickness of glass plate film) would not be a good idea.

**damiendemolder** · 6-Feb-2009, 06:58

Thanks Andrew

I hadn't thought to use glass, but I guess it makes perfect sense. I'll be off to the glaziers on Saturday then. Feeling much happier now!