btw, in the states, sodium corbonate monohydrate can be found as a pool chemical...locally called "PH Up."
The only problem is you get enough for 10 lifetimes.
btw, in the states, sodium corbonate monohydrate can be found as a pool chemical...locally called "PH Up."
The only problem is you get enough for 10 lifetimes.
Thanks Donald.
I think this process is beyond my limited capacity at the moment. I don't have a darkroom, and am only a few weeks past developing my first negative. Still trying to figure out the difference between under-exposure and under-development, and to get consistently well-exposed negatives. It doesn't help that my shutter is untested, I bought my thermometer at the local dollar store, my cable release sticks, and I use my XA as a light meter, but hope I can rectify some of these deficiencies on this trip.
You would be surprised how difficult it is to get anything for film development in Bangkok these days. All of Asia has gone digital in a big way. The only places I could discover that sold developer were a dusty old shop in China town, and another shop somewhere in the north of the city that I could not find, but which was out of developer anyway.
Cheers, Tim
Oh, I looked at the site you posted, and now realize its where the caffenol formula is listed. I have seen that before, and am going to try that, as I have a coffee table I made from coffee wood I cut from our farm in Indonesia, and want to do a still life of the table, with a cup of coffee from the farm on it, and developed in coffee. Thank you for that!
In my experience Shanghai behaves almost exactly as fp4 for time, reciprocity and such. I was also able to push it to 400 fairly easily in Barry's 2 baths (Metol)
That's interesting. So you just shoot at 400, then use the development times for the Ilford 400 ASA? Maybe I can try that with straight D76 when I get back from the US.
I just added a few minutes to the time in the developer. The normal time in Bath A is 5 or 6 minutes -- for 400 I leave it over 10 minutes. The neg is more contrasty, as expected, but it still perfectly good...
You may need to experiment with your developer; shoot 4 identical negs at 400, and use dichotomy to settle on a time that gives you the best result...
Originally Posted by buze
I've been doing 4 minutes in each bath. I thought that after that, it was pretty much meaningless as the film would have absorbed all it could in bath A and exhausted itself in bath B by that time.
I'm looking for a faster alternative to FP4, but what you're saying seems to indicate I could just rate it at 400iso and "push" it in Barry's.
Do you like the negatives you get that way? Do you think they're as good as 400iso film?
Examples?
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