4x5 setup for newbie...

[jamesw]

Hi all,

I'm making my first step into LF. I've been shooting 35mm of various types (most recently Leica M and now 1DsMkii) for years, but I love my landscape work most. I noticed that many of my favourite landscape photographers were still working on 4x5 and so decided to check it out. I've done a bit of research and asked a few people, but I thought it was time to ask on a forum what people's opinions were about a starter setup.

OK, so I don't want to spend a silly amount of money before I decide whether LF is really for me. However, I'm prepared to spend enough to not put myself off by limiting the experience with equipment that won't give me a good idea of the process.

So far, I'm considering such things as a Chamonix 045n-1, or a Shenhao (the TZ45 IIB - or possibly the cheaper PTB 54) for the camera itself. Again though they're at the cheaper end of the new market, I did want to check whether there have been any issues with these, and whether they're going to have enough features so I'm not too limited in my learning curve. For example, are they going to have enough movements for normal dof/perspective corrections in landscape work? Are the screens going to be bright enough? Can I use 'quickload' film in all of them? Etc. I must say that something is drawing me toward the Chamonix, but it's just a feeling.

Lens-wise, I've been told, and read on here, that I probably shouldn't go for a 90mm as a first lens, even though that is one of my most commonly used focal lengths in 35mm photography. Perhaps a 110, or 125? Again, do I need to get a lens that's 'fast' enough to be able to see clearly on the ground glass for focussing/composing/learning movements?

What else do I need to factor in? I'm guessing a good spot-meter, film-scanner, and other things. Could someone suggest a starter kit list?

Many thanks in advance!
James

[Walter Calahan]

I started with an inexpensive Tachihara with a 135mm Schneider. All bought used.

Don't think in 35 mm lens equivalents in 4x5. The two formats do NOT have the same aspect ratios, so you'll get confused trying to calculate what you need.

Let you eye guide you as you grow in LF.

I do not see that same way you see. A lens I like may not work for you. Take your time learning one lens before buying a bag full of lenses.

"Fast" glass is meaningless in LF. Give you eye time to adjust to the image on the ground glass. All modern LF lenses will be plenty bright on the GG.

Invest in a quality tripod. Don't overlook having an incident meter as well as a spot meter. No one meter is perfect for all situations.

The main thing is not to rush out to buy everything under the sun. Simply learn to see in LF first. Once comfortable with seeing in LF, you'll know what to buy to do all the rest.

[Brian Ellis]

Do a search for "newbie" and maybe "newcomer" here. You'll find more information about getting started in LF photography than anyone could ever need. But if you're going to ask questions dealing with purchases, don't use terms like "silly amount of money" and "spend enough." We have no idea what those terms mean to you. Give us dollar amounts, e.g. "I don't want to spend more than $1000 for a camera and $500 for lenses."

[Ron Marshall]

It is easy and economical to resell used LF equipment.

The cameras you mentioned will do fine.

I recommend getting a single lens and using it for several shooting sessions before considering others. Something in the range of 90 to 210mm.

KEH has a good selection and reasonable pricing, and their ratings are fair.

http://www.keh.com/OnLineStore/Produ...BCL=&GBC=&GCC=

[Skorzen]

Everything said here makes sense, the only thing I wanted to mention is that I would NOT recommend getting lenses new. The new vs. used prices of even modern lenses show a big advantage with going used.

[John Jarosz]

Don't forget a good 4x-5x eye loupe, and a focusing dark cloth. Some kind of case that holds everything is very handy. This may all sound trivial, but LF is different than MF or 35mm. You need to have everything at hand when you are setting up to take a photograph. It's easy to become frustrated because SOMETHING isn't where it should be.

If you buy from KEH I will say not to discount their bargain classification. I've purchased bargain items in the past and I'll say I found it difficult to find any flaws in the item. That's where to save some $$. If you are a newbie, I agree that you shouldn't do ebay for LF unless you have someone to guide you on the item you wish to bid. .

John

[John Whitley]

As a newbie who's newness is just losing its shine, I'll second the recommendation to go with used lenses. There are many fantastic lenses available on the used market for much less than most new lenses. Moreover, there are many lenses no longer made that meet certain needs better than currently manufactured lenses. One of the fascinating things about LF photography is the vast living history in available LF equipment.

[jamesw]

Thanks for all that advice, most helpful! And yes, you're right, I should have been more specific on prices, etc. Oh, and I live in the UK - I'm not sure the second-hand market here is so strong, unfortunately, but maybe I haven't looked in the right places and a UK member here could put me right?

OK well from what you've said I'm tempted to start with a Chamonix 4x5 camera, because it seems to be a lot of camera for a very reasonable price, as far as my level of knowledge goes and from what a couple of people I've asked have said.

As for the lens... well, I'm more likely to use a wider lens I think. So I'd be inclined to start with a 90mm. However, I am slightly concerned about what I've read on other parts of the site and a couple of people advised me that it could be really difficult to compose and learn movements on a 90mm lens as a beginner. How much of an issue do you think this will really be? I have to learn the format with whatever lens I get I would have thought. It's good that a faster lens is not neccessarily needed in terms of getting enough light to compose, carry out movement adjustments and focus, etc. as faster lenses seem bigger and more expensive. If you think a 90mm really is going to be a problem for a beginner, maybe I could get a 110mm or 125mm?

If I get the Chamonix, do I need an adapter to use Fuji Quickload sheets? Is there any way to use non-quickload sheets without access to a darkroom?

I'll have a look around at second hand lenses and come back with any more specific questions.

James

[jamesw]

OK just started looking at lenses on the KEH site as recommended. I have a few questions straight away:

1. They mention 'mount' type: i.e. some say '35 mount', or '4x5 mount', etc. should I only be looking for a '4x5 mount' type for my application?

2. What is Copal type?

3. Things like 'Seiko B', 'Comp B' - what do they mean?

Do I need a specific combination of these factors for a specific 4x5 camera?

Thanks!

[Ron Marshall]

OK just started looking at lenses on the KEH site as recommended. I have a few questions straight away:

1. They mention 'mount' type: i.e. some say '35 mount', or '4x5 mount', etc. should I only be looking for a '4x5 mount' type for my application?

2. What is Copal type?

3. Things like 'Seiko B', 'Comp B' - what do they mean?

Do I need a specific combination of these factors for a specific 4x5 camera?

Thanks!

35 mount refers to the lensboard hole diameter in mm, (see here: http://www.largeformatphotography.in...ole_sizes.html)

4x5 is the largest format on which that lens can be used.

Copal is the brand of shutter. See here: http://www.largeformatphotography.info/shutters.html

Have a read of all of the info on the front page of this site.

You don't need to use quickloads, if a darkroom is not available, you can use a changing room:

http://www.badgergraphic.com/store/c...t_detail&p=663