Signing Baryta Prints

[Kirk Gittings]

I have been having some issues with signing some baryta prints. I had no problem with the Innova but the ILFORD Gold Fibre Silk Baryta has given me fits. On well aged prints, say 6 months old I have no problem but on fresh prints even two weeks old and open to the air the whole time many pens just skate on the surface or skip. I just did a test. Soft pencil won't work on either. On the 6 month print both worked fine but on the two week print a Sharpie wouldn't write at all and a Rapidograph (my preference) just skated and skipped. Any suggestions? I am not interested in signing the mat.

[domenico Foschi]

Have you tried Micron pens?
http://www.sakuraofamerica.com/Pen-Archival
They have them in different thickness, but I am not sure if they are thick enough for signatures.
They are archival as well.

[Kirk Gittings]

Thanks Domenico. I just went out and bought a couple, .20 and .50. The .20 skated and skipped whereas the .50 worked just fine. Though I prefer a very fine tip it appears in general that I have been trying to use too fine a point on this paper and possibly other baryta papers too. After further testing the .50 seems to work well on everything. My Rapidograph was .30 and perhaps is too fine too. The Sharpie........well it is just a sharpie.

[Michael Graves]

Thanks Domenico. I just went out and bought a couple, .20 and .50. The .20 skated and skipped whereas the .50 worked just fine. Though I prefer a very fine tip it appears in general that I have been trying to use too fine a point on this paper and possibly other baryta papers too. After further testing the .50 seems to work well on everything. My Rapidograph was .30 and perhaps is too fine too. The Sharpie........well it is just a sharpie.

Can't sign a print with a Sharpie. Those are only good for footballs.

[Gordon Moat]

I have some Marvy Uchida DecoColor fine line pens for signing RA-4 process prints. Ended up getting a white and a silver pen, and they work nicely on a slick surface. On my Polaroid manipulations, I just use pencil, since that is Fabriano art paper.

How much bromide is in the new Baryta inkjet papers? I still have some old Oriental Seagull Bartya paper for B/W chemical prints, though I suspect the construction is different than inkjet papers.

Ciao!

Gordon Moat Photography

[David A. Goldfarb]

Harman Gloss FB AI uses the same base as Ilford MGFB IV, but it is subbed for inkjet. I think there are only a couple of companies making baryta paper base now, so it is probably the same base that is used for many FB papers as well as for inkjet papers.

[Gordon Moat]

Baryta papers of the past contained barium hydroxide. New Baryta inkjet papers contain barium sulphate. It seems to me that the paper companies, or perhaps the marketing, is changing the meaning of Baryta print. I think this is confusing for the art market. A traditional chemically printed B/W Baryta print is not the same as an inkjet Baryta, yet how would the end purchaser know any difference?

I am not trying to pick a fight with this, but it certainly looks confusing. Barium sulphate is a whitening agent. Barium reacts with air, and historically the oxide has been called baryta, but not the sulfide. Barium hydroxide is actually a corrosive material. Someone want to explain all this?

Ciao!

Gordon Moat Photography

[Greg Lockrey]

Have you tried using the inkjet ink and a Speedball type pen?

[Jim Cole]

I use a Faber-Castell Pitt Artist Pen (black - S) for all my gloss papers. It works perfectly on the Ilford Gold Fiber Silk. My prints are done with a Z3100 using the gloss enhancer which is usually what I'm signing on. I use it to title and sign the prints on the white border of the print which only gets the GE. No skips at all.

Jim

[Arne Croell]

Baryta papers of the past contained barium hydroxide. New Baryta inkjet papers contain barium sulphate. It seems to me that the paper companies, or perhaps the marketing, is changing the meaning of Baryta print. I think this is confusing for the art market. A traditional chemically printed B/W Baryta print is not the same as an inkjet Baryta, yet how would the end purchaser know any difference?

I am not trying to pick a fight with this, but it certainly looks confusing. Barium sulphate is a whitening agent. Barium reacts with air, and historically the oxide has been called baryta, but not the sulfide. Barium hydroxide is actually a corrosive material. Someone want to explain all this?

Ciao!

Gordon Moat Photography

To my knowledege the term "baryta" in paper production (photographic or otherwise) has always meant barium sulfate, or barite as a mineral. Barium salts are quite poisonous, including the hydroxide. The sulfate is the exception because it is practically insoluble in water (for that reason it can be given orally as a contrast agent for x-rays of the stomach).