Anyone have thoughts on the best drum to use with the Jobo CPE-2 Plus processor for 4X5 b/w with PMK Pyro?
Anyone have thoughts on the best drum to use with the Jobo CPE-2 Plus processor for 4X5 b/w with PMK Pyro?
Larry, I can tell you I have had so many weird edge artifacts using my 2521 drum that I eventually gave up and now process 1 at a time in a tray in the dark. This is with Ilford FP4+. Best of luck. Interested in other answers on this also. Jim
Hi Larry, I use the Jobo CPE 2 Plus for all of my film and paper processing with excellent results. 35 mm to 4x5 without a glitch. Even processing Ektachrome is a snap.I use Kodak and Tetenal chemicals and follow Jobo instruction to the letter. Look at Jobo website for complete directions for your machine as well as processing proceedures There you will find all the information you need on drum selection.
I use the 2509n sheet film reel with the 2508 loader and 2512 4x5 film guide. Practice loading with old or exosed film as per Jobo's instructions. It may be tricky at first, but becomes very easy very quickly. Good luck!
I don't use PMK pyro or the CPE-2 Plus processor (though I'd like to). I do use the Jobo tank and reel, though. I roll it by hand forward 10 seconds, back 10 seconds, invert 2-3 times, and slap to dislodge bubbles. I love it. It gives me extremely even development. I don't have the loader as I bought the reel and tank used and that's how it came. The tank is actually the one designed for a Jobo processor with a lift. I found a rubber stopper that fits the top--much cheaper than buying a new top portion.
FWIW, I shoot TriX rated at 200 and develop in HC-110B for 6 minutes at 68 degrees.
Dave
Look here: http://www.jobo-usa.com/jq/jq9502.htm
Hi Larry, I can verify the results with Wil, Its an excellent processand set up, I also do 24- 2 1/4 X 3 1/4 on 2 modified 4x5 reels.
Bill
I can't talk about Pyro, but I use a CPE-2 for everything. For 4x5, I use the 2509n reel. I've never had a problem with uneven development or anything. I'm surprised no one has suggested the expensive-enough-to-choke-a-horse expert drums yet. Anyway, if you find a used 2509 reel, make sure that it is the 2509n (note the "n" - for "new" I guess) which has two plastic plates that snap onto the reel after loading film to keep the ends in place. Apparently, the old 2509 had uneveness problems. I've never seen them with the 2509n. I haven't seen a need to go with the expert drums.
BTW, if anyone does C-41, do not rotary agitate the stabilizer! (Tetenal instructions don't tell you this. No developing books I have tell me this. There's no one around to teach me, so I find out myself the hard way.)
I feel like I need to qualify my original answer. The question was in regards to PYRO. I don't have a bit of trouble doing E-6 chromes in my 2521, or using T-Max dev. for B/W etc. But Pyro is a whole different animal and I did, after a whole bunch of experimenting with different agitation methods, give up on the tank, NOT the Pyro. The little locater stops and things that help to locate the edges were causing artifacts where the developer had to "swirl" around them. For a long time I thought I had dark slide leaks but a friend who also uses the 2521 tank with PYRO and was fighting the same problems pointed out the cause. I might add for interest sake that I use the "Rollo" or ABC+ variety, and my friend uses straight PMK pre-mixed by the vendor. We were both getting the same phenomenon. I tried everything because ultimately doing them 1 at a time in a tray is a pain in the neck. But when you walk all over the world to get the stuff, you don't want to sacrifice all your effort to save some time.
Jim Galli
Larry, Can't comment on the Jobo, but I'm getting consistently even developing when using Pyro in a Combiplan tank. I am careful when agitating however, and use a "slow motion" version of standard inversion technique (this seems to assist in keeping the film from springing from the holder). Regards Paul
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