8x10 TMY negs for platinum printing

[andress007]

I'd like to try some platinum printing on 8x10 TMY in XTOL negs. I've read that negs density for platinum printing should be around 1.5 How to get this density? Should I expose my TMY at ISO100 and develope normally, or expose at ISO400 an just over-develop the negs? Thanks.

[John Bowen]

I've never used XTOL. I use Pyrocat HD 2:2:100 for TMY negatives destined for Azo. The Pyrocat stain helps increase the contrast. The Canadian Grade 2 Azo needs more density than Platinum....at least that is my understanding.

Good luck,

John

[Bruce Watson]

I'd like to try some platinum printing on 8x10 TMY in XTOL negs. I've read that negs density for platinum printing should be around 1.5 How to get this density? Should I expose my TMY at ISO100 and develope normally, or expose at ISO400 an just over-develop the negs? Thanks.

XTOL typically gives people close to box speed. If you expose TMY at 100, that might be two stops over exposure. It's likely that printing such a negative could become somewhat of a struggle.

That said, there's a reason why people keep saying to "expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights." It works and it's very effective. That's what I recommend you do. BTW it's not considered to be "over-developing." It's correctly developing the negative to get the highlight density you want to make printing easy. And that's a good thing.

[Don Hutton]

I'd like to try some platinum printing on 8x10 TMY in XTOL negs. I've read that negs density for platinum printing should be around 1.5 How to get this density? Should I expose my TMY at ISO100 and develope normally, or expose at ISO400 an just over-develop the negs? Thanks.

Do not over-expose! You will get close to box speed under most circumstances with Xtol - If you have a silver time dialled in for the combo, I'd add about 30% development as a starting point. Even negs which print OK normally may well be printable using Na2 process control with Palladium - you just will use a lot of Na2 (which is expensive), but it should get you going with the process. In general, you will want a negative with a greater "range" - i.e. more contrasty. If you overexpose - and you will if you shoot TMY at EI of 100, you won't get that, you'll just get a negative where the whole thing is very dense, and it may take hours to expose as a Pt print. As usual, testing will help get you closer.

[andress007]

excelent tutorial: http://www.ferguson-photo-design.com...nstruct02.html

[Lenny Eiger]

I'd like to try some platinum printing on 8x10 TMY in XTOL negs. I've read that negs density for platinum printing should be around 1.5 How to get this density? Should I expose my TMY at ISO100 and develope normally, or expose at ISO400 an just over-develop the negs? Thanks.

Don't know why one would use XTOL or TMY for his purpose - neither would be my first choice. If it works for you, great. I like traditional film and D-23 or Pyro.

However, I would generally develop out negs to 1.8-2.0 for platinum. Of course, the authority is Bostick and Sullivan.

Lenny

[D. Bryant]

Don't know why one would use XTOL or TMY for his purpose - neither would be my first choice. If it works for you, great. I like traditional film and D-23 or Pyro.

However, I would generally develop out negs to 1.8-2.0 for platinum. Of course, the authority is Bostick and Sullivan.

Lenny

There is nothing wrong with using TMY for palladium printing, in fact it is a very good film to use. As long as you get the proper density range with XTOL (which I think you can) the film/developer should work fine.

I don't know why Lenny suggests or implies that TMY isn't a good film for palladium prints.

Don Bryant

[Michael Kadillak]

There is nothing wrong with using TMY for palladium printing, in fact it is a very good film to use. As long as you get the proper density range with XTOL (which I think you can) the film/developer should work fine.

I don't know why Lenny suggests or implies that TMY isn't a good film for palladium prints.

Don Bryant

I completely agree with Don. T Max 400 is capable of building enormous usable film density for the alt process photographers that need this flexibility in their process. I personally believe that when one looks at the entire package (reciprocity character, usable linear film density, tonal response, processing flexibility and flawless quality control) it is the best film currently avaliable. No, it is not the least expensive film on the market, but IMHO film is the cornerstone of the analog process and I believe that one should use the best film that works for them irrespective of the manufacturer. The key is to purchase it regularly.

Cheers!