I managed to navigate in completely darkness but the result wasn't great at the first run. The sheet tends to stick at the bottom of the tray most of the time. I have to constantly of pull it up. It all messed up. Ilford fixer has strong smell as well, maybe I will get some kitchen gloves next time.
Any helpful tips?
Always wear gloves.
Use trays with ribbed bottom.
Enjoy the smell of fixer - that means you've remembered to put fixer in the tray.
ditto
I use Nitrile gloves.
Gloves are vital. Fixer smells bad (although there are some kinds that don't) but the real culprit is developer. Many people can become sensitized to metol (an ingredient in most developers) and become allergic to it, causing nasty (and in some cases incurable) skin problems. Be safe and stay healthy!
I also prefer gloves - in addition to the reasons mentioned, they also help prevent fingernail scratches on the film.
I use a slosher to process film - the film is processed emulsion-side up, and rocking agitation forces liquids through the holes in the bottom of the slosher, gently lifting the film away from the bottom.
Yes, nitrile, to reduce chemical exposure to my hands and the need for excessive hand washing, and to reduce risk of damage to film in the dark from fingerprints and fingernails.
Are you using the kind of trays that have several slots on the bottom running the length of the tray? Paterson made trays like that, I'm sure other companies did as well. The slots make it easy to grip the bottom sheet of film even with gloves on. If your trays just have a flat bottom then you're going to have a difficult time with tray processing.
Brian Ellis
Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you do criticize them you'll be
a mile away and you'll have their shoes.
I agree that ribbed trays are almost essential. And, as others have said, gloves are important, too. Kitchen gloves, however, are probably too thick to be able to feel the film.
Many folks prefer the nitrile gloves for greater protection, but if you're not latex-sensitive, you may find the latex, surgical-style gloves at your drug store to be less expensive and adequate. That's what I have used for years, and haven't suffered any adverse effects, adverse effects, adverse effects.
Regardless of whether you used flat bottomed trays or ribbed trays you can prevent film from sticking together by using a water pre-soak prior to the developer. I used plain tap water with a pinch and I mean a pinch of sodium carbonate added to the water. Actually I put the sodium carb in the tray first and then add water.Originally Posted by mervynyan
So when I'm ready to process I hold the film fanned like a deck of cards in my right hand and with the left hand I place the film into the pre-wet tray. I place the right hand edge of the film in the tray slowly until it gently touches the bottom of the tray. I then release the film into tray and it will slowly sink into the water. Repeat until all of the film is in the pre-wet tray. Be sure to keep your left hand dry.
After all of the sheets are in the tray slowly inter-leave the sheets for 5 minutes. The film will not stick together from there out, although once the film is in the stop and fixer the film has more of a tendency to stick to each other and the tray.
This sounds a bit complicated but it's quite easy. Try it in the light with scrap film to get a feel for the process.
And yes I wear nitril gloves on my hands.
To be honest your best bet is to forget the trays and use some type of rotary processing. Your film will never look better with rotary processing.
Don Bryant
Don, Why Sodium Carbonate? If I remember correctly it acts as an accelerant in a developer? But in the presoak? This is new to me.
Thanks,
Kirk
at age 73:
"The woods are lovely, dark and deep,
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep"
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks