post your Architecture photographs!

[David Schaller]

From yesterday. 150mm yellow filter, FP4 in Pyrocat.

[HoodedOne]

From yesterday. 150mm yellow filter, FP4 in Pyrocat.

Wow, great shot David.

[HoodedOne]

Posted this image also in the New55 topic recently. But it also fits here (i think).
A bookstore inside a 800 year old church. New55 film with wanderlust travelwide camera, handheld (1/4 @ f8)

2016-045010.jpg by HoodedOne, on Flickr

[David Schaller]

Thanks HoodedOne. That looks like a very cool place.

[Kevin J. Kolosky]

I think that it would be a nice addition, especially in this architecture section, if you would please add a few comments with your photos on what movements you used and how you went about choosing which movements you were going to use.

[Pali K]

Really love your work David. Particularly like the last image you posted here.

Pali

[Christopher Barrett]

David... since you asked for technical criticisms, the only thing I'd nitpick at is that while you are for the most part making images in one point perspective, all of those images are slightly off. They're either not quite level, plumb or square to the architecture. Architecture is a very exact and unforgiving art. Those documenting it, in my opinion, should practice a similar meticulousness. If you miss it in camera, you can still correct later with cropping, or digitally tweaking.

Everything else feels pretty good to me. I've made my living shooting architecture for the last 20 years, so this stuff jumps out at me pretty quickly.

-CB

[David Schaller]

Thank you Christopher, I was hoping for that kind of critique. I have been having problems with leveling everything exactly, especially with the 75 mm lens. I am using a bullet level from the hardware store, rather than the levels on the Sinar F2. Naturally I am most concerned with the vertical back, and trying to keep the back horizontal as well. In a couple of instances I used some front swing, but there are so many different planes in the subject that I eventually got more confused. I also have found that the film becomes askew in the holder at times. I plan to print in a traditional darkroom, so I am trying indeed to get things right in the negative.
Thank you again for your comments. I will keep trying to improve!
Dave

[Ari]

David, I'm no expert on this, but one suggestion I found helpful is to use any bubble level only as a starting point, i.e., to get you close to level/plumb.
What matters is how you see things on the ground glass, so make your adjustments on the camera, and ignore the bubble level at that point.

[djdister]

Thank you Christopher, I was hoping for that kind of critique. I have been having problems with leveling everything exactly, especially with the 75 mm lens. I am using a bullet level from the hardware store, rather than the levels on the Sinar F2. Naturally I am most concerned with the vertical back, and trying to keep the back horizontal as well. In a couple of instances I used some front swing, but there are so many different planes in the subject that I eventually got more confused. I also have found that the film becomes askew in the holder at times. I plan to print in a traditional darkroom, so I am trying indeed to get things right in the negative.
Thank you again for your comments. I will keep trying to improve!
Dave

One more note on getting a level shot - the most important aspect of the camera to level is the rear standard. So put your emphasis on making sure the rear standard is level and square - the front standard will affect focus but not getting to level. When you are ready to expose film, check the level against one side of the rear standard, the top of the rear standard, and against the ground glass for vertical.