Thanks..Originally Posted by Peter De Smidt
I would to scan 120 at 4000, but I don't understand 8x10 in one pass...it's possible to make scan in more pass? in what way?
Thanks about get long part or film parallel to the front of the scanner... Why? there is a particular or special position?
About cover sheet, I could find also with light texute, but how thick I should be use? Plexy or glass is the same?
Stefano
Stefano, take a look at the diagrams at: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...bGRBhw&cad=rja
The CCD array runs parallel to the side of the scanner. It's an tri-linear CCD with 8000 Red, green, and blue elements. So in the direction of the ccd array, that gives limit on resolution in that direction. (The resolution of the other direction depends on the quality of the stepper motors and linear system, which is very high). You want to place the film with the long edge parallel to the front of the scanner, as you want to apply the 24K elements to the short edge of the film.
Yes, you can scan in strips parallel to the front of the scanner to increase resolution with some film. I scan 35mm @ 6000 spi, 120 film @ 4000 spi, 4x5 film @ two strips of 4000 spi, and 8x10 at either 2 strips of 2000 spi or 4 strips of 4000 spi. The latter is a little crazy. This produces huge files. You scan in strips by using a slight overlap for each strip, and you scan all of them using the same settings. You then merge the strips in Photoshop, PTgui..... There will be slight tonal variations between the strips. (Note: Screen recommends a 30 minutes warmup before scanning.)
Regarding cover sheets, I don't have one of Screen's. My guess is that they use textured acrylic like a thin version of the bed. You can try one-sided anti-glare picture framing acrylic or glass, or P99 acrylic.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Cezanne for sale in Chicago area on Craigslist: http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/pho/5953498903.html
Thanks a lot of all your advices... Lots of material to study...
Now I'm looking for a textured acrylic glass to put over lighter textured in 3mm or 4mm
Another question, and after for some days I don't do it anymore...
If I want make a wet mount, how to work? what I need?
Stefano
Hello Cezanne users! I wanted to write a quick tutorial/informational post as today I did some work on my Cezanne which you may need to do someday.
Recently, especially in the colder weather and low humidity, my Cezanne has been making horrendous sounds when resetting the lens to neutral position after scanning on the bottom part of the bed. I determined it was the carriage hitching on the rails inside the scanner, so I sat down tonight to oil the mechanism.
How to oil the lens movement rails:
First, open up the scanner the regular way. The lens carriage moves on 4 rails - two on either side of the lens for lengthwise motion and two on either end of the bed for top to bottom motion. The one on the left is under the mirror. What is important here is how to move the carriage up and down. The two lengthwise rails, lens assembly, and electronics are all on a "sled" attached to both vertical rails. Despite what you may think, it should be moved by pressing up or down on the far left side of the sled. Up and down relative to looking inside the scanner from above, that is. Don't touch the electronics obviously. If you try to move the sled by pressing in the center or equally on the left and right it won't move or it'll jerk around - don't! I have found that the left side is key for easy movement.
Now first clean up the rails. Mine had what looked like old, smudged graphite on them, or were just dirty. I use and swear by Pec Pads, and Eclipse fluid, for cleaning sensitive stuff including camera gear, so I recommend you buy that. Only use the Eclipse fluid if you need to really clean something, and while it's open you might as well clean the front of the lens and mirror with said fluid. Now the second part of this is lubricating the rails. I was recommended sowing machine oil and found that Singer's Light Machine Oil is thin enough to work as intended. They sell it at Wal-Mart even. What I did was put a couple of drops onto a Pec Pad and wiped down the entire length of the rail. I did this for each rail, and repeated as necessary if the rail and movement still felt a little jerky or un-smooth.
I don't know what was originally used to lube the rails - like I mentioned, mine looked like it had graphite on the rails but I know it had many different owners previously so who knows if it was put there then or maybe it was just some other grease. Anyway, I am not sure how long the rails will move smoothly with the light machine oil but already my machine is purring along much quieter now and so I am very happy with the results. It may just have to be reapplied more often. Might make a habit of a yearly oiling and mirror/lens clean.
That's pretty much it. Oh, also while messing inside I realized that you could put the light box and shield on the scanner and not screw them on and it still runs just fine. So if you are troubleshooting, no need to constantly unscrew all of those screws during disassembly (in fact, the scanner ran fine with the entire light box and shield removed completely, so that you could see the lens and mechanism inside under the film!).
Just to be clear - I in no way guarantee anything I wrote above will work for you and anything you do is at your own risk!!
I've done the same things. They helped.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Hello,
I am looking at a used s5000 and I am wondering about the resolution / size relationship of the scanner. I am aware that, unfortunately it will not scan at same resolution for all sizes, I can, however, nowhere find the data which would explain the relations ... I am interested in typical photo film sizes from 35mm to LF.
Now maybe this was answered in the tread before - I apologise not reading it all.
I would appreciate if someone can point me to this information.
Thank you in advance,
Rene
This isn't straightforward. Facing the scanner, from the front to the back, you have about 8000 spi to use, which is limited by the sensor. Left to right the limit is the precision of the stepper/movement assembly. Tests show that you can get about 30% more real resolution than described by the the 8000 figure, due, probably, to the linear movement system. So, roughly, you can scan an 8" wide strip at 1000 to 1300 spi. There is a hard limit on the maximum file size, but I forget what that is. If you need more than that, you can scan the negative in strips and put them together in various ways. For high resolution strips, the negative must not move in any way. A glassless carrier will allow too much movement. When I do this, I wet mount the negative to glass.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Thank you peter - I think I understand. No matter what the transparency size is, the short side resolution will be 8000 spi since it is only scaled down via optics and not scanned via an xy sensor movement ... Am I correct assuming this?
Scanning in stripes might be a problem for me since people mention tonal shifts and I work with colour. Fixing that in post would be a pain in the eyes ... Then again 8000 spi is quite a nice resolution and should suffice for all sizes of prints ...
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