Screen Cezanne Users Unite

[Tsuyoshi]

Peter,

Where did you get anti-newton acrylic sheet?

I was just about to place an order to AN glass for 8x10 and 7x17... That would be quite helpful.

Warmly,
Tsuyoshi

[bagdad child]

Thank you Peter, you are most kind! Such a holder would make life a lot easier for me! The wet mount holder I am using works well but it lets me scan only one frame at a time.

Bob, I have shot quite a few rolls of Ektar and I think its quite a nice film but it has a tendency to block the shadows quite abruptly if not given enough exposure. On the other hand it can be overexposed quite wildly. I think I overexposed it by four stops by mistake and it came out really nice and punchy! I took four or five rolls in Turkey but I haven't got them scanned yet and I have only scanned Ektar with my Canon flatbed before. Apparently Ektar is the most fine grained color negative film but my experiences are still too limited to tell how it compares to films like the Fuji Pro160. ANother negative film I can recommend is the Fuji pro400H. It scans very smoothly and colors are good with little or no correction. Luckily I brought 400 speed film to my trip to Turkey. The whole summer there was very blustery which is very unusual. I had also brought Velvia 50 but didn't shoot a single roll of it becuase of the constant wind.

Chris

[Bob McCarthy]

Chris I'm an old B&W zone guy with a spot meter. Gotta be careful now days, it's in a pistol type holster. Every time I pull it out I worry about a policeman getting the wrong idea.

Figure out film speed, expose for the shadows, pray for the highlights.

I'll try the 160 too.

bob

[Peter De Smidt]

I never thought about a spot meter looking like a pistol. I'll have to be careful!

Non-glare acrylic picture framing glazing can usually be used on top of a negative to hold it down. It has a texture that prevents Newton's rings.

For my 120 holder, I'm going to carefully cut good sections out of my standard screen anti-Newton tray using a sled on a table saw. I don't know of a source other than Screen for this super high quality AN acrylic. I wish I did.

[Bob McCarthy]

I never thought about a spot meter looking like a pistol. I'll have to be careful!

I got spooked one day when wearing it on my belt. Looked like a 6 gun from the old west. Mounted cop asked me about it (mounted on a bicycle). I showed him the meter, he wasn't sure for a split second, could see it in his eyes...

Scared crap out me....

Can see the headline "cops blast armed photographer" news at 6

The holster/meter stays in the camera case..

bob

[tylerscaife84]

I was wondering what the best way to adjust the density levels in scans are... I am trying to scan an 8x10 negative and for some reason the light areas are being blown out. What is the best way to correct this. I was also wondering if anyone had any profiles for Kodak 160vc for a ft-s5000? If so could you possibly direct any help or profiles to TylerScaife@gmail.com. Thank you.

[bagdad child]

Hi Tyler,
Welcome to the forum! I am a quite new user of the ft-s5000 so be aware that my experience is limited. I do scan quite much color negative though so I might be able to give you some advice on that. At first I was using the film presets in color genius (are you using color genius as well? There is also software called color scope if I am not mistaken) and most of the time I was able to get a fine scan from those. Sometimes though I just couldn't get detail in the shadows and when I tweaked the presets (under preferences in color genius there is a way to edit the film presets) I would get detail in the shadows but at the cost of a cyan color cast that I just couldn't get rid of in a pleasing way in photoshop. So what I do now is that I scan my negatives as positives like Bob here on LF does and then I invert them in photoshop and after that I correct the levels for red, green and blue. After that I save the tiff and (re-)open it in ACR to set white balance and brightness etc if needed. Really simple and works really well. Peter who is very helpful gave me the idea to shoot gretaf macbeth color targets with those films I use and create film profiles and hopefully I will get around to do it come spring. In theory it should work very well but I don't know how it would get around the problem of blocked shadows or a cyan cast which I just couldn't tweak away. Peter also gave me the excellent link to Don Hutcheson's RGB scanning guide which contains a wealth of information on how to improve your scans with a high end scanner.

http://www.hutchcolor.com/PDF/Scanning_Guide.pdf

Scanning the color negative as a positive is simple. I have found that the scanner automatic exposure settings after the prescan is pretty much spot on every time. If you click "manual adjustment" you can set the levels but unless the negative is badly misexposed I just let the scanner do its thing. I always uncheck sharpening. Remember to set your resolution before doing manual adjustment or you'll have to do the adjustments all over again.

You can have look at some of my scans from the cezanne at my website

Chris

[bagdad child]

One word of caution to all of you. If you haven't already noticed it, the excellent anti newton acrylic gets scratched very very easily even by kinetronics anti statics gloves. Camel hair brush works fine though.

[JJCNER]

I have just picked up a Cezanne FT S5000. Everything that was with it when it was new was included and is in good working order. I am in the process of making a place for it. I have many 4x5 B/W negs, and 6x6, 6x4.5 and 35mm chromes to archive. I do have one question that has not been addressed here. Does anyone know what the depth of field is for this scanner? I am anxious to get it up and running and see how it performs.

[Peter De Smidt]

Not much. It does autofocus, though, and so minimal depth-of-field shouldn't be a problem for film scanning. I have some settings suggestions on my blog.