Slosher in a tray is a possibility too
I don't trust myself with not scratching film unprotected in the dark.
Formulary has a couple of items at
http://www.photoformulary.com/Deskto...ID=78&langID=0
Best,
C
Slosher in a tray is a possibility too
I don't trust myself with not scratching film unprotected in the dark.
Formulary has a couple of items at
http://www.photoformulary.com/Deskto...ID=78&langID=0
Best,
C
Last edited by CG; 11-Feb-2008 at 12:19. Reason: clarification
Dave, I made some inexpensive development tubes out of 1 1/2" (40mm) black ABS tubing (it is used here in the states for sink drain lines). My preferred method now for most film development is with minimal agitation of semi-stand development. It requires more time, but gives great sharpness and tonality. I'm using a "new" developer called pyrocat-hd which is now comercially available or can be mixed at home.
Currently using efke (adox), tri-x, fp4, foma 200 from time to time and it works well. tim curry, tucson, az.
Glad that you had an opportunity to try digital and am happy that you saw the light (no pun intended) and came back to the analog world.
There are many that also are very comfortable recommending JOBO rotary processing for sheet film and while that process works great, I (like many) are concerned that replacement parts to maintain these units are in question going forward.
I feel very strongly that the most viable alternative is what was the industry standard for nearly 40 years - gaseous burst agitation development using inexpensive nitrogen gas. Used parts (plenums, tanks, regulators and interval timers) can be had for a song and it can be accomplished with plentiful Kodak 4A hangers. The process only uses one moving part and you can individually process sheets in one developer run without a hitch.
Cheers!
I hand-roll a Jobo Expert drum on the $25 Jobo roller-base. It is quick and easy to load film, fill and drain chemistry, and economical in use.
I've been using a Jobo expert drum on a non-Jobo base for 13 years. I'm just now trying tubes, similar to BTZS but for 5x7 and from ABS pipe. So far so good.
my picture blog
ejwoodbury.blogspot.com
Trays. One 8x10 sheet at a time. If there was a slower, more tedious, but better method I would do that instead.
Photography:first utterance. Sir John Herschel, 14 March 1839 at the Royal Society. "...Photography or the application of the Chemical rays of light to the purpose of pictorial representation,..".
I have several different means to process but the one I started with was a Jobo universal film dev tank, they are meant for roll film but are alrge enough for (2) 4x5 sheet film just make sure you put the emulsion side toward the center. (emulsion in contact with the container causes streaking) Single sheet is a good way to go especially if you are new & shooting b&w. take both shots (sides) of the film holder then process one sheet if you find you have made an error in exposure then you can adjust by pulling or pushing to the right one. Shooting the same setting twice may seem like a waste but sometimes film may be fogged, etc. If the first one comes out right then you can play with the processing temperature to see how different temperatures effect development.
You might want to look at the Paterson Orbital. Being in the UK, it should be relatively easy to source and at a reasonable price.
It's basically a tray with a light-proof lid. Dead easy to load, & quick fill and empty. You can do four 5x4" or one 10x8" at a time. It only requires minimal chemistry too - 60ml is the stated minimum amount, but I use around 150ml to ensure sufficient develper. You can rotate it by hand, or keep an eye out for the motor base (which some people don't like)
Thanks all for your help and advice.
I manged to pick up a Dallan stainless steel deep tank that takes 12 sheet at a time. I'm hoping it shouldn't take too much chemical to fill. I'll let you all know how I get on.
Thanks
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