Durst L1840 Enlarger 8x10 10x10--Everything you wanted to know...

[ic-racer]

Is it off the shelf repurposed?

Is there a scientific theory for the 'ridges or spirals' instead of a simple parabola.

An original from a 2506 Horizontal Durst was used for the mold, so this replica is the same shape as the original. Turns out it is exactly the same as the one in my CLS2000 too, so I was helping out checking if the replica coating would hold up in a vertical position. I think they had to make over 100 minimum order. Not all had adequate coating, some flaked.

I believe the ridges help diffuse the light as it is not a point source, it has to spread the 2000W light over the 10cmx10cm square area where all the activity takes place: exposure shutter, heat absorbing glass, accessory filter, intensity control blinds and the 3 dichroic filters.

The dichroic reflector acts like a "Cold Reflector" where the visible light is reflected toward the target and the heat and infrared pass through, and the powerful fan removes the heat. The notch is for cooling and has to face the fan.

Reproduction on the LEFT, original on the RIGHT.

[ic-racer]

To feed my Durst equipment I have my darkroom wired with these 6-20R 220V US outlets and use an adapter like this for items in which I want to retain the original European cord. If one does not want to use the adapter a 6-20P plug can be put on the end of the existing cord.

[Drew Wiley]

Yep. That's exactly what I did for my internal fan on the CLS colorhead on my L184, when I isolated it from the 115V remainder of the system in order to avoid rebuilding the complicated dual-voltage power supply. But never do this kind of plug switch until you've confirmed the Euro voltage.

[William Whitaker]

The chart is interesting. But the configuration of the plug for my fan is a simple bi-pin with no ground. The fact that it is bi-pin is, in fact, more suggestive of 115V than 220V as there is no connection for the third leg.

[Drew Wiley]

William - you need to look at a chart having the European convention. What ice-racer posted is the chart of domestic NEMA options, in which he identified the correct replacement plug to match that volt/amp receptacle configuration here in the US. And no, a ground is not necessarily required just because it's 220V, any more than it is on properly insulated 110V equipment here, which could just as easily electrocute you if improperly insulated. In many countries 220V is used for everything, even a hair dryer. Here it is more frequently used for powerful motors like in heavy iron shop equipment, or for high-wattage steel appliances like electric ovens and dryers, where specific grounding is essential, usually accompanied by a dedicated circuit breaker or fuse box.

[Drew Wiley]

There are all kinds of instant-click websites illustrating how to identify such things, such as "Plug and Receptacle Types - World Standards". My very first Google click came up with a picture of your plug identifying it as 220V. It's pretty darn easy.

[ic-racer]

The white 'adapters' in the picture in post #512 will accept your two-prong European plug. Home wiring is subject to local codes and these might preclude you from installing the European sockets, thus the need for adapters or cutting the end of the cord and re-wiring the plug to US standard. One reason for pointing all of this out, is that, of course I'd recommend an electrician work with you on this, but you need to tell him exactly what you need. Otherwise he (or she) might install a three-phase 220 outlet for a Stove or Oven, that will not be correct for your Durst equipment.

[ic-racer]

The reason I asked about how you power the rest of the enlarger is that even if you have a condenser head, if you have the L1840, there is an accessory 220v outlet and your LAFAN would plug right in there with no adapter. See picture socket AUX "E" is a European socket.

Attachment 190704

[Drew Wiley]

What so-called electrician would accidentally install a 3-phase outlet? That would be like a dentist accidentally amputating your leg! Most utility services won't even run 3-phase lines to residences or home shops; maybe to a big farm building, but even then it's darn expensive. 3-phase is for sake of big-motor equipment, not for dryers or ovens or even big commercial darkroom gear.

[ic-racer]

I don't know of any electrician that knows anything about big darkroom equipment or its power requirements. The building from which my enlarger came had 3 phase and I suspect most 8x10 enalrgers would be installed in similar commercial buildings. Ansel Adams was the only person anyone ever know that had an 8x10 enlarger in his home.

This some so-called electrician's handy work when faced with big darkroom equipment.