Durst L1840 Enlarger 8x10 10x10--Everything you wanted to know...

[Steve Nieslony]

That's awesome... order placed!

Thanks a million!
Steve

[gary mulder]

I am posting this answer on the thread about the Durst Mavet 205 in a attempt to keep all the info on the L1840 together.

AFAIK the Nega / Grane combination takes slightly smaller glass inserts than the Laraneg. The later has a glass size 269 X 269 mm. So I suspect the Mavet's will only the Nega / Grane. For the Laraneg there are the Laradap and the Lagrafi family. The Laradap takes the Trinomasks and the Reglas inserts from the Trineg mask made for the 13 X 18 enlarger. The Lagrafi has a pin registration and are made in for several sizes. I have seen 24 X 18, 13 X 18 and 4 X 5.
Some pictures to try to make it less complex with all the names.

[gary mulder]

Here is an example of the large images I currently am producing. They are physically glued together by hand, not unlike the way a work of art would be created (as opposed to a computer creation ). I am proud of the joining lines as they clearly differentiate my work from "stitched" work. However, I have been doing this for 5 years and still don't feel like I have a good technique to glue them together. Currently I am using tape to hold the images together and then using super glue for the bond. The reason I have been using that technique is that superglue glue flows well and leaches under the two pieces of paper while they are still held in alignment. Then it sets instantly.

Each one was created with a different technique:

TOP IMAGE: This was done with the Rollei panorama head. So, it is three separate negatives that were printed then glued together with the image matched up.
SMALL IMAGE: This is a mock up for a larger image (yet to be printed). This was also done with the Rollei panorama head and 3 negatives, but in this case the rebate of the center image was included, and the other two were overlapped to line up the subject.
BOTTOM LARGE IMAGE: This was done with a totally different technique. The original negative is 8x10 and I used a 210mm lens to print four separate segments of the image on 16x20 paper. Then I glued the 4 pieces together and matched up the image. It came out 51" long x 20" high. I used the 'scrolling' Durst Negateil to position each segment of the original negative over the lens.

In the picture you see the drum I use to develop large prints. I make the drums from pvc drainage tube. This way I only need ± 600 ml to do a 100 X 60 cm.

[gary mulder]

The rodenstock 240mm rodagon can be fitted on the Tripla with a durst made ring labeled 6672. The illumination of the diaphragm indication is covered although. The other lenses are a Rodagon 150mm and a Schneider Repro-Claron 1:9/305mm.

[ic-racer]

Thanks for posting those pictures Gary.

That Tripla has some fantastic lenses on it.

What are the external dimensions on that drum?

In terms of the Mavat, is it a top and bottom? What is used for the bottom? I'm not sure I fully understand how it fits.

[gary mulder]

The Laradap and the Lagrafi are placed instead of the bottom glass of the Laraneg. The top glass of the Laraneg must be removed. The inserts take smaller size masks/glass The top mask ore glass is then clipped on top of the bottom glass by means of the clips you see on the picture of the Lagrafi/Laradap .

A have made 2 drums from tube 250 x 6,2 mm. One 55 cm long and one 102 long. The internal diameter can hold a print 70 cm long. So the small drum max size is 70 x 50 cm and the large one 70 x 100 cm

Most lenses I have are gifts ore came with various enlargers.

[Allen in Montreal]

Gary,

Thank you for the Lagrafi Pictures.
This is the Mavet and Nega 205/Grane 205 combo.

Grane205 with the glass removed and the Mavet in place.


A Nega205, glass removed, a Mavet in place and a Lapfe laid over top just to illustrate (the Lapfe is not in its proper slot).

[cory stickley]

AFAIK the rodagon 240mm has a 72 X 1,0 mm thread. The unipla will take lapla's up to 66 mm. Durst made a adapter from 66 male to 72 female but I do not know if the 240 will fit. So the only option is to make it fit a Vapla board. Find a vapla board with the fitting thread, or let a machine shop make a setup ring to the same thread as your 360mm

Update on my Durst...finally, a month after your excellent suggestions, I have received my Vapla with flange mounted permanently to it. The 240 mm lens fits perfectly and the whole thing is on the Durst. I have done a quick check to see that it is going to work and tomorrow I will use it for the first time. Very exciting. This is the culmination of about 4 years of building, moving the Durst, finding lenses, information and getting acquainted with it.
Since I have 11 x 14 paper, that will be where I start. Who knows what will come after that. Thanks for all the help and encouragement. It is great to know there are so many knowledgeable people out there

[Allen in Montreal]

Durst Pro has a 72mm Lapla, it ain't cheap!

But, it fits the EL-Nikkor 210, the newer Rodagon 240 and the newer Rodagon 300mm.

For 138 and 184 users, if the 138 has a fixed tripla, (not all Tripla are removeable and then a unipla is not useable), it is a compromise to able to cross platform 72mm tread lenses from the 184 to 138





(I landed this EL just as a Rodagon 210 came in too :--(
Anyone need an EL Nikkor 210? )

AFAIK the rodagon 240mm has a 72 X 1,0 mm thread. The unipla will take lapla's up to 66 mm. Durst made a adapter from 66 male to 72 female but I do not know if the 240 will fit. So the only option is to make it fit a Vapla board. Find a vapla board with the fitting thread, or let a machine shop make a setup ring to the same thread as your 360mm

[ic-racer]

So, after thinking about it a while I came up with a very nice masking system. It only works with the Negateil.

I cut the mask out of thin black poster board and feed it into the Negateil. It goes all the way to the the far inner lip of the opening and stops. This mask is below the glass negative holder and above the lens. The mask stays still while the negative can shift above it (allowing perfect centering). I did do some tedious measurements to get the hole in the mask exactly over the center of the lens.

Now I can just sandwich a 35mm negative strip in my 10x10 glass. The whole strip goes on the glass (that is, none of the strip hangs outside of the glass) and the Negateil shifts to bring the correct frame over the hole in the mask. This allows almost instantaneous shifting between formats. The mask always goes in and stops at the same location, so the hole will always be in the same position when you slide the mask in place. There is even a little lock knob to keep the mask from shifting when doing vertical projection.