Epoxy paint or epoxy types/sources for sink

[robby parkman]

sherman willians tile clad.. it is waterbased.. epoxy based.. just mix it, wait 30 mintes and paint.. little smell.. goes over everything FDA approved

[d.s.]

West system. I'd use 10 oz. fiber glass cloth also with plenty of coats to cover the weave well. The people at west marine will show you everything you need. It won't be cheap but it will last forever.

[phil sweeney]

My favorite epoxy is Envirotex Lite Pour-on. Ace Hardware sells it and the company is based in California. It is easy to mix, easy to use and doesn't smell as bad as some others that I have tried.
I have used other types of epoxy and the only type that I would ever use again is the kind that comes in two equal parts--this makes for much easier mixing. I have never used West Systems but suspect that since their products are used extensively in boat building they would be a excellent.

I built a couple of three foot by eight foot sinks with plywood and applied a couple of coats of the envirotex lite and have never had an issue with the sinks. I did not bother with fiberglass, and think that it is unnecessary if the construction is solid enough. In the first two sinks that I built years ago I used Fiberglass and hated it and the sinks.

HI David,
Did you use a 0.25 inch per foot slope? I am building 2-8 foot sinks and was thinking a little less slope would be adequate, especially for a water bath.

[David Vickery]

Hello Phil,
My darkroom is in what used to be a garage, which has a floor that slopes already. I don't know how much that slope is-it isn't much, but it is plenty to do the job. When I built the sinks and stands I just made everything even--as much as my carpentry skills would allow--and put the drains on the downhill side. I also used wooden shims to keep the sinks from rocking around on the stands.
My guess is that 2" over eight feet would be a little too much. I think that one inch over eight would be plenty and would be less noticeable in your trays and tanks. You can always ad shims between your sink and sink stand if you don't build in enough slope.
Again, unless you use real thin plywood for your sinks, or if you live in New Orleans and might need an extra boat someday, you do not need to put in the extra expense and time with the fiberglass cloth.

[Robert Ruderman]

My darkroom sink is a 7 foot plywood sink. I used marine epoxy (MAS brand or System Three). I ended up mixing some epoxy with some wood flour to create a "wood" caulk to fill in all of the seams of the plywood joints (belts and suspenders,but then I am not losing any sleep over water seepage into the joints). The sink has not needed any "recoats" or sprung any leaks since the job was finished 8 years ago. I did not add a fiberglass sheet or any fiberglass tape to the construction. The sink is quite stong (as it needs to be) if you plan to run a print-washer in the sink (I run a 16x20 print washer these days which weighs in at around 200lbs).

If you go the marine epoxy route, plan on two or three coats of epoxy applied no more than 24 hours apart (or else you will have to sand lightlight after each coat).

Also, you will likely need at least 1 gallon of epoxy to complete the task. Take a look at some of the "do it your self kayak kit" sites for a competitive pricing for the epoxy. These tend to be less expensive than West Marine prices (even with shipping). Take a look at:

http://www.pygmyboats.com/mall/BuildSupplies.asp
http://www.clcboats.com/epoxy_plywood.php

By the way, if you go with the marine epoxy route, becareful not to mix different brands of epoxy; there is no guarantee that they will play nicely together. Best to work with one brand through the entire project.

Cheers,
Robert

[Larry Wright]

Vinny,
I built a sink with the plans in "Build Your Own Darkroom" by Lista Duren and Will McDonald. They suggest PPG's Coal Tar Epoxy. I used Sherwin-Williams Water Based Catalyzed Epoxy. The man at the paint store said it is not as durable as the oil base epoxy but it doesn't have the toxic fumes. It has held up well for me for about 7 years. If I remember correctly, I put a primer on the wood before I applied the epoxy. Good luck.
Larry

[Michael Rosenberg]

A one inch drop over 20 feet is good enough for drainage. Look at the article I wrote on the LF Home page regarding making a sink out of PVC. Local plastic fabricators will sell you the sheets, and you then use the gray PVC cement for PVC electrical conduit sold at home depot/lowe's. Also, McMaster Carr online sells the PVC. The PVC can be cut like plywood, and the seller may cut it for you! No fumes, ready to use within an hour. My sink is 7 years old and no leaks.

Mike

[dpetersen]

Use epoxy resin and hardener that is available at any marina that does boat repair or from any boatbuilding website, some woodworking stores may also stock it. Get some of the foam rollers to spread it with. Fiberglass cloth is used for strength like rebar in concrete, may not be needed if your plywood is sturdy. Filler compounds are mixed with the epoxy ot form a paste which could be used for "caulking" the joints. Fillers are available where you buy the expoy. DO NOT use polyester resin, this stuff stinks to high heaven and is harder to use than epoxy. Here's how I would proceed:
1. lightly sand the plywood with 80 grit sandpaper then clean it well-this will let the epoxy adhere to the wood
2. Use rubber gloves, a respirator, and OLD clothes epoxy get on everything (protect the floor with plastic also)
3. Mix a small batch of epoxy,thicken with filler to a paste (maybe like peanut butter) and work into all the joints. Smooth off using a spoon or something like it
4. Let this set for 24 hours
5. Mix small batches and give the sink a thin coat-Use inexpensive "chip" brushes to paint on your first coat. The wood will absorb the epoxy in spots go over these dry looking areas again then let it set until the epoxy is no longer sticky to the touch.
6. Give at least 2 more coats using the foam rollers-these can be thin coats, wait until it is no longer tacky between coats.
7. The outside of the sink may be painted with any paint you wish

Epoxy is rather aromatic and is best used in a well vented area. Drying time will vary with the temp and the catalyst you use.

Having built several epoxy/fiberglass boats, I understand that the first epoxy use is scary, but if you take your time you'll do just fine.

DP

[steve barry]

i would fiberglass resin the thing. but you dont need the cloth mesh for the flat parts of the sink - i did that not thinking and it was a total waste of money. just use the mesh for the corners. if you did not want to fiberglass the sink - ANY two part epoxy will do. home depot sells a two part epoxy in the paint department for covering garage floors. works pretty well - all though, I moved before 2 years was up on the sink i did with it, it had zero problems with heavy use and would likely gone another 5-10 before I had to re coat it.

[vinny]

I've ordered West Systems epoxy from a boat building shop in Oregon. It was cheaper for me to order and pay shipping than driving to Marina Del Ray, sitting in traffic, to pay almost double the price. I Love California!
I stayed away from the garage floor epoxy since it states right on the box "do not use on wood". Thanks for the help everybody, i'll post a pic or two later this week.