Building a view camera. Which wood you choose? ..

[eduardtoader]

Hello.

I'm not shure if this is the right place to ask about but ,I can't meet anothet thread to read about.
I also consulted collodion.com where they have a dyi space but I did'nt met what I'm looking for.

I have several months trying to begin a 8x10 or larger project. I also was looking for a Deardorff type folding camera to restore but I didn'nt met a big deal.. After a wet plate workshop I decided to keep working on 4x5 on film and let the 8x10 to the coming years... Who knows?

So, I am between two bunch of recycled beech wood, surely dry thorough 30-40 years, enough sapeli? wood recycled too, less olive wood and some almond wood. I'm very excited to begin my camera project but I'm locked in the first level. I don't have any WP camera and I don'nt know anyone in my area having it. I don't know wich is the better wp holder type. I don't want to waste time making projects already made.. I'm shure I'll not invent the better camera, fot that reason I ask help for the plateholder and the way wii insert on the camera, avoiding any light issues. Anyone of you could share some explicite photos of the plateholder and the rear element camera?

The camera will be used to shot wet plate collodion excusively. The larger size will be 40cm. It's the same for me if the camera will fold or not. I think it will be more complicate to make a foldable one.. Like I have to move a lot of chems, darkroom, glass, tripod It's the same if the camera will fold or not. Better foldable but, we'll see.




Any drawing, picture or link will be wellcome.


Thanks all for help.

[Curt]

Sycamore is used by Smallbone of Devizes cabinet makers in England. They are high quality high end custom woodworks.

[cyrus]

I think you shold consider different woods for different parts of the camera. They each come under different forms of use and potential damage.

[E. von Hoegh]

Pattern grade mahogany, if you can find it, naturally seasoned for a couple decades. Wear spots inlaid/bushed with lignum vitae.

[Ed Kelsey]

These guys have great wood

http://www.woodworkerssource.com

[normanv]

Pete, what is wrong with MDF? I'll tell you, it is heavy! I built this 10 x 8 camera using MDF as I had nothing else available and although it is perfectly functional it is very heavy. I had to build a special head for my tripod to carry the weight. The Symmar 360mm convertible lens didn't help much.

[Robbie Shymanski]

I have re-read this entire thread (even saw that I posted on way back). Most of the arguments relate to visual issues with wood. Some "workability" issues too. I guess the question comes down to what the home-builder wants. I have read very little here about issues of dimensional stability, relative hardness, and moisture resistance. Materials like mahogany were used for so long in camera manufacturing because it met all the design criteria above. And it was fairly inexpensive at the time. Now, not so much. 10 years ago when I was working in custom furniture, I watched the price of Honduran Mahogany triple and availability drop over the course of a few years. What replaced it were mostly "plantation" tropicals. Horrible wood that is all new growth. Horrible dimensional stability. Tears out like a bitch. If one wants good solid wood for small construction, look for guitar woods that are flat or quarter sawn. They will have the stability that would make for a precision instrument, like a camera. Also, old growth woods are where it's at. They are light and stronger due to the tight, resinous growth rings.. I would be weary of 'recycled' and 'reclaimed' woods, unless you have experience dealing with them. Consider the amount of time spent cleaning and re-milling the materials might not be worth your time. All that said, sheet materials are also well worth considering. I have made a number of architectural cameras out of MDF. It's just a box. I can make them attractive. But the issue with MDF is it needs heavy finishing just to make it "water resistant". And there are some strength issues. Aircraft or Baltic plys are also really good, especially if a decent joint can be worked. Personally, I love working with solid woods. I am finishing up an all mahogany 5x7. It started in ply, but the ADHD kicked in when I reminded myself I had a supply of milled stock. I wish it could all be out of T6061-T6 aluminum. Brass could be cool too. Anywho... All in all, choose materials that are idealized to your desires and ability. Are you going for something lasting and practical or something to be looked at rather than through. Rant over.

[Steve Smith]

I have read very little here about issues of dimensional stability

As just about everything on a view camera is adjustable, I don't think dimensional stability is very important. Nothing is going to move in the time between you setting up the camera and pressing the shutter.

Exceptions to this are the frame holding the ground glass, which needs to remain flat and not warp and the pieces forming the sliding bed which obviously doesn't want to twist and get jammed.

Most hard woods used for good quality furniture or musical instruments will be fine. In fact, musical instrument suppliers or even a local guitar or violin builder/repairer can be a good source of wood and advice.


Steve.

[Robbie Shymanski]

As just about everything on a view camera is adjustable, I don't think dimensional stability is very important. Nothing is going to move in the time between you setting up the camera and pressing the shutter.

That is an assumption that all view cameras are "adjustable". Personally, the cameras I build are one-trick-pony's, like architectural cameras. They have little to no "adjustments" and so if materials warp and twist out of square or parallel, the camera is useless. I guess is it not an issue if one has lax a concept of mechanical or visual precision.

[E. von Hoegh]

That is an assumption that all view cameras are "adjustable". Personally, the cameras I build are one-trick-pony's, like architectural cameras. They have little to no "adjustments" and so if materials warp and twist out of square or parallel, the camera is useless. I guess is it not an issue if one has lax a concept of mechanical or visual precision.

Precisely. In order for the camera to work as a machine should, the tolerances/clearances must not change. Wood is problematic in that it can be fairly stable in one dimension, and not so stable in others. Old growth naturally seasoned woods are necessary, and unfortunately very hard to find. Build a flatbed field camera with nice tight rails, and when the weather changes, those rails might either jam or become loose using easily available kiln dried wood. And how will it work in 50 years or so?