Here is a picture of the rear tilt mechanism and, for some reason unknown to me, it provides more forward tilt than rear tilt due to the off-center location of the locking nut. This certainly is the way the camera came from the factory, as these standards were riveted to the rear frame.
http://www.largeformatphotography.in...5&d=1220120765
Now that screw-post rivets are used to attach the rear standards to the rear frame, reversing the rear standards to provide more rear tilt was simple.
With the 210mm lens, there now is more than enough rear tilt to get the foreground and background in focus in a typical landscape scene requiring a Scheimpflug arrangement of the standards.
ic-racer: If it were me. I would choose of the two ways ,one would johns way or I would buy a bunch of cherry verneer shts and build it up one at a time and would rotate the grain each time, like they do with plywood for strenght and stablity, and the last piece I would try to blend with the grain of the present piece ! I know its a lot of work, but does give you a lot of control :
Lauren MacIntosh
Whats in back of you is the past and whats in front of you is the future now in the middle you have choices to make for yourself:
Ok, but did you realize the thread was started almost a year ago!Originally Posted by seawolf66
The wood rails have long been repaired and have proven very sturdy in the field.
Yes, but since you started this before I joined the group -- I'll add 2 cents worth. You mention black paint for the interior wood parts. STOVE BLACK available a old style hardware stores or new wood stove places is a great super dead flat black. Works great! Super job on the camera - by the way.Ok, but did you realize the thread was started almost a year ago!
Beautiful job! I love seeing that old thing given the royal treatment. Is the nitro laquer finish holding up well?
-Chris
In the deepest recesses of the brass there is evidence of continued oxidation, in spite of the lacquer coating. I suspect this could be prevented by machine buffing (rather than hand buffing). But I was at risk of loosing structural brass, as some of the pits and scratches in the brass are quite deep.
In terms of the wood parts, the lacquer is holding up fine. Just to clarify, my research 'after the fact' indicates that the camera was probably originally covered in shellac or varnish, rather than lacquer ( http://www.fiberq.com/cam/general%20trends%20finish.htm )
Since I did not remove the old finish, and I know the nitrocellulose covers shellac without problems, I suspect the camera was originally finished with shellac.
No pictures to show for this one, but while I had the camera apart to flip the rear standards, I bent the brass pieces that ride in the focusing frame's grooves. This firmed things up nicely and now there is little or no wobble in either standard.
I did not do this when I initially had the camera apart for restoration, because I didn't know if this was going to wind up on the collector shelf or be a 'user.' If it was going to wind up on the collector shelf, I did not want to bend or damage any of the parts. Since it is turning in to a fantastic user camera, I went ahead and bent the pieces, realizing I may have to face some consequences. Turned out there were no ill-effects (ie the focusing is still smooth, though, expectedly tighter.)
UPDATE:
The rear tilt is enough now for almost any situation. The standards are sturdier now also. I never did get any camera movement or 'focus surprises' in the past, but now I have more confidence in the camera.
What a great thread, thank you for the inspiration.
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