Your meter does not know how far extended your bellows are. So you need to apply that after you take a reading. Then after that you apply reciprocity correction for the film.
For most cases you do not have to worry about those factors or corrections. Only when you are shooting macro or under dim light.
All of the information on these factors can be found at this site or other places.
-dan
Last edited by Dan Schmidt; 22-Sep-2007 at 21:02. Reason: made a little clearer
I think you are mixing problems and solutions here. Bellows factor is rarely a problem and much to much worried about.
Reciprocity sometimes kicks in at about 1 second but it depends on the film. This is why I tell people in my workshops not to join the film of the month club. Pick a film and use it so you learn how it responds in different situations. You can get RC info fro the mfg's web site.
Bellows factor, and someone is sure to wow us with a complicated math formula, starts when you extend the bellows 25% more than what would be required for an infinity focus. For example, a 6" lens (150mm) will not have a bellows ext problem until it is 7.5" from the film plane. When this happens add 1/2 stop - either with time of f-stop.
If you extend the bellows 25% then add 1/2 stop.
If you extend the bellows 50% then add one stop
if you extend the bellows 75% then ad 1.5 stops
if you extend the bellows 100% then add two stops
This applies to all lenses, even those with a telephoto design.
Get a cloth measuring tape or a small retractable tape and put it in your camera bag. It beats having to do the math each time.
steve simmons
steve simmons
Good day Dan and Steve,
My perspective in LF is getting in place I think. Thanks.
Hello guys,
After a few trial and error (most are errors) I have finally made this viewable photo. My first four film was a disaster. It is really one of my happiest moment to see that one of the films are exposed right (I think). Please critic the photo. I did not take note on the movements but I can remember I applied movements on the camera. F22, 1 second
JessJ
To the Moderator,
May I request for the deletion of my last post (#14) for it does not present consistency to the topic mentioned in the thread. Thank you.
JessJ.
I am interested in metering with a DSLR. I got myself, mainly my wife, a DSLR but when I meter with the spot meter the DLSR does not match. Does sensor size matter? She is always with me and when I try to use the DSLR the meter tells me something way different than the spot meter which I know is correct. I would like to be able to take advantage of the evaluation mode that a DSLR offers as I learn.
Richard Adams
For anyone new to LF, I would recommend Bruce Barlow's new book on CD. Bruce, together with Richard Ritter and Ted Harris instructs the Fine Focus Workshops in VT and NH. Bruce has compiled and organized his handouts into a 180 page book. It is filled with "how to" stuff and lots of exercises to enhance your photographic skills. Bruce also offers a film test kit to determine your personal film speed and development times. The link is
www.circleofthesunproductions.com
There are also some good informational articles on Bruce's site.
Best to you in your photographic endeavors,
Stop confusing yourself.Originally Posted by riooso
Stick to the spot meter.
KEEP IT SIMPLE!
Richard Ritter
www.finefocusworkshops.com
You are, of course, correct but sometimes I get the feeling that I am in search of the "Holy Grail" when it comes to getting the correct exposure.
Thanks,
Richard Adams
It is simple. The DVD "Finely Focus" covers exposure, development, metering, but the more important part of the book are the exercises that get you out into the field photographing. Allot of what is in the book is used at the Fine Focus Workshops.I am in search of the "Holy Grail" when it comes to getting the correct exposure.
Thanks,
Richard Adams
Richard Ritter
www.lg4mat.net
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