vietnam in october...advice welcome

[jeff ross]

i am heading to vietnam for a photo trip for two weeks in october.

i'm just beginning to plan my trip so thought i would bring it up to the LF audience and see if anyone would like to share their experiences (both good and bad). the way i tend to shoot is somewhat off the cuff. i love driving around and stumbling upon things, but will also plan to hit some specific sights as well. for this type of shooting is it best to hire a taxi (or guide) for the day and have them take me around? i will concentrate mainly outside of the bigger cities.

Do i need commercial shooting permits and where might i obtain one?

what are the logistics of traveling in VN with a 4x5 camera?

i have read some of the earlier posts and they will be quite helpful, but i'm seeing if anyone wants to add anything, as all suggestions would be helpful.

fwiw, i plan on taking a carry-on suitcase that holds all 4x5 gear, shooting quickload, + a lowepro backpack with hassleblad, lenses, film, etc. oh and a small duffle for for a suitcase.

thanks in advance

jeff ross

[Ron Marshall]

I was there three years ago, but only with a 35mm. Internal flights are cheap, and the north-south train service is good, but slow. The intercity busses are slow, because the road conditions are not great. The only place I can think of where you would need a tripod permit might be at Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum in Hanoi, or the former presidential palace in Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC). Lots of great places for LF. HCMC is a short cheap flight from Siem Riep, Cambodia, for a quick side trip to Angkor Wat.

Be very careful with your valuables. I didn't have any problems, and I was working there for six months, but I spoke to a few people who lost items on the street from snatch and grab theives.

[Mattg]

Better than a taxi and guide is a motorbike and no idea. You'd want to be able to get all your gear into a backpack so you can comfortably ride around. The bike's are cheap to hire and give you real freedom. The French influence is notable in that the road rules are honoured more in the breach than the observance. I would avoid motorbike travel in Ho Chi Minh City but found it excellent in the regional centres and even Hanoi. Just take it very easy.

As Ron said, don't get on a bus if you can avoid it. The trains are slow but the buses are worse. At least the trains are comfortable and you get a great look at the countryside. In the two months I spent there I saw five serious bus crashes by the side of the road.

You need to be sensitive to people's view of westerners in most of the tourists; it's best to avoid any display of wealth. Happily an old wooden view camera probably loVietnam. Vietnamese can be very direct and if they don't like you you'll know about it straight away. People's view of westerners changes depending on where you are. Tourism in Vietnam over the last two decades has given people a real sense of how poor they are in relation tooks old and cheap. Avoid any new shiny gadgets. I think you're carrying too much gear but I don't know what your purpose is, think about reducing gear to the minimum and making it look as worthless as possible.

Hope you enjoy it, the Vietnamese countryside is some of the most beautiful I have seen anywhere. The are around Hue in particular is worth a few days exploring. I'm not sure if it's still wet there when you're going but you may want a waterproof backpack. The afternoon storms mean lovely cloud formations over the mountains and rich saturated colours after rain.

[John Berry]

If there is certain places in the countryside you want to visit, I would check to see if you will be allowed to go there. In talking to other VN vets that have went there, they do have some areas closed to foreigners from what I understand. Someday I would like to go back and visit the central highlands again. Different shooting this time.

[Mattg]

Sorry, that third prargraph should read:

You need to be sensitive to people's view of westerners in most of the tourists; it's best to avoid any display of wealth. Vietnam. Vietnamese can be very direct and if they don't like you you'll know about it straight away. People's view of westerners changes depending on where you are. Tourism in Vietnam over the last two decades has given people a real sense of how poor they are in relation to tourists. Happily an old wooden view camera probably looks old and cheap. Avoid any new shiny gadgets. I think you're carrying too much gear but I don't know what your purpose is, think about reducing gear to the minimum and making it look as worthless as possible.

Also don't be surprised if some people are hostile toward having their photo taken without being asked first.

[Eric James]

A friend tells me that OCT is a good time - it's not hot and it's not raining. Avoid the taxi; a guide - through a travel agency - is a better option. Where will you land? What do you want to shoot?

[jwaddison]

I worked there for 3 months a few years ago and have nothing but good things to say about the place. I found the people exceptionally helpful, and the countryside a photographer's delight. The central highlands are worth a visit (although I was not able to go to the Laos/Cambodia border area due to what I later found out was some ethnic unrest - that may have changed by now). Ha Long Harbour shouldn't be missed. Hue area also.
I was fortunate to have a car and driver for the first two months. If I were to go back on my own I'd take the train or fly to different centres and then hire a car and driver to go to the countryside. A motorcycle would be a good alternative if you are already an experienced rider. There is lots of cheap transportation available within the cities.
My work had nothing to do with photography, and I only had a 35mm. The last month I was there I was on my own, and had no trouble with food, hotels or taxis. Take something from your hotel if you wander around to show a taxi where you want to go (matchbox, letterhead, etc). A GPS is handy.

[PViapiano]

You should Google for Peter Steinhauer, a wonderful photographer who lives in Hong Kong. He was recently featured in LensWork and has a book, Enduring Spirit of Vietnam.

He may be able to give you some tips...

[jeff ross]

thank you all for the advice. hugely helpful. does anyone know about traveling by motorbike in vietnam? i've decided this may be the best way to go. However, i'm worried about NOT being licensed for renting a bike, as i am not in the US. I do have an international driver's license, if that matters.

also after much thought i've decided to jettison my 4x5 gear and go with only a hassy and a couple of lenses to reduce my load. i will carry a small, light tripod as well. could anyone recommend a light, nimble and relatively inexpensive ball head.

thanks again
jbr

[QT Luong]

See http://www.terragalleria.com/vietnam...otography.html

You should not have a problem to rent a motorbike.