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Thread: Photo shot with X-ray film

  1. #21

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    Re: Photo shot with X-ray film

    Quote Originally Posted by David Vickery View Post
    Gene, What is your EI???

    I haven't quite got that down yet. For the "Big Wheel" shot it was about EI 50. I developed by inspection under red safelight in HC-110b. Developing time was about 3 minutes on a film hanger with frequent agitation, but not continuous agitation. I would hold the film up and look thru it at the red safelight to judge shadow density.

  2. #22

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    Re: Photo shot with X-ray film

    Another image from a couple days ago, shot on CXS High Speed Blue Sensitive X-Ray film. (which is Agfa film) The original is sharper than it appears in this very small jpg. however the passenger car in the background is intentionally a little soft.

  3. #23

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    Re: Photo shot with X-ray film

    Very cool
    Thanks for sharing
    Ed

  4. #24
    Donald Qualls's Avatar
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    Re: Photo shot with X-ray film

    Quote Originally Posted by eddie View Post
    so the link that gene gave which do i want to buy? which did you buy gene? CXS High (Full) Speed Blue Film or CXS Ortho Green Film or CXS Green Latitude Film

    which is more like regular film. will all work for me? thanks

    eddie
    I'd be inclined to try a sample of the Green Latitude or Ortho Green film -- those'll be ortho sensitive and one is faster (Ortho Green) while the other has wider latitude, which implies a longer range. It doesn't look like CXS, at least, tells you which films are single- vs. double-sided, but the ones that talk about "sharpness" are likely to be single sided.
    If a contact print at arm's length is too small to see, you need a bigger camera. :D

  5. #25

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    Re: Photo shot with X-ray film

    All the photos I posted in previous posts were from a sample pack of blue sensitive X-ray film. I ordered a 100 sheet box, and my first use of the film from this box shows fogging under red safelight processing. I know it is the safelight because of the pattern of the fogging shows the shadow of the film hangar the film was processed in. It is odd that the film which should be only sensitive to the blue end of the visible light spectrum is actually effected by the deep red safelight...a safelight that works perfectly well for my processing of ortho/litho film, a safelight that I have used for years for that purpose. What do you suppose the issue is?

  6. #26

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    Re: Photo shot with X-ray film

    This reminds me of being in the office of an industrial radiographer. He had some beautiful images made with his X-ray machine.

    Maybe blue sensitive film would be useful to someone interested in ancient processes and ancient soft-focus lenses.

  7. #27
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    Re: Photo shot with X-ray film

    I looked for a spec sheet for the various x-ray films available from CXSonline and couldn't find any, and I checked the other vendors of the AGFA product, with no luck there either, but I cannot say it was exhaustive.

    So I tried the opposite approach and searched the Kodak website for safelights and x-ray and found a support column that talked about x-ray film fogging. That discussion pointed to this safelight publication, which covers all their film products. I doubt that it is something new to most of you, but it seems to confirm that you would be safe with a Kodak GBX-2 safelight.

    http://www.kodak.com/global/en/consu...cts/pdf/k4.pdf

    I further found that total cumulative safe exposure to this lamp is limited to 2-2.5 minutes.
    Last edited by wclavey; 27-Jul-2007 at 12:45. Reason: Further info found

  8. #28
    Donald Qualls's Avatar
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    Re: Photo shot with X-ray film

    Quote Originally Posted by Gene McCluney View Post
    It is odd that the film which should be only sensitive to the blue end of the visible light spectrum is actually effected by the deep red safelight...a safelight that works perfectly well for my processing of ortho/litho film, a safelight that I have used for years for that purpose. What do you suppose the issue is?
    Most likely the dyes used to sensitize the film for visible-blue light actually also have a sensitivity spike in the red or infrared region. These wavelengths wouldn't affect things with automatic processing and X-ray exposure, but could cause trouble in processing under safelight.

    If you have the option, you might try either a red or yellow LED safelight; the very narrow emission of the LED makes it much more likely to avoid trouble with "stray" sensitivity bands in the film. Yellow/amber would probably be the better choice -- and it's probably worth doing an actual formal safelight test; you might find the emulsion is similar to old green-blind IR films (this is what Weegee used to use; it was decades ahead of HIE which was broadly panchromatic as well as IR sensitive), which had fairly broad but low sensitivity in the red-to-infrared and even reached into yellow a bit, as well as blue/UV, but had a wide "dead" band in the green.
    If a contact print at arm's length is too small to see, you need a bigger camera. :D

  9. #29

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    Re: Photo shot with X-ray film

    Somebody has to ask...do you think it would work in pyrocat hd? Thinking along the lines of contact prints for VDB or POP.

  10. #30

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    Re: Photo shot with X-ray film

    Quote Originally Posted by DanJones View Post
    Somebody has to ask...do you think it would work in pyrocat hd? Thinking along the lines of contact prints for VDB or POP.
    Since it is a silver/gelatine emulsion, I would think it would "work" in any Pyro based developer. I see no issues with pyro.

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