Almost ready to take my first LF picture

[Zach In Israel]

I'm about to order a E-6 kit, My lab just raised the prices to 75 NIS per sheet or roll. (Thats about $18). So getting the kit seems to make a hell of a lot of sense. Still need to find a method of temp controll.

[Zach In Israel]

I found a new lab, that is somewhat cheeper, so I have my first film loaded in the filmholder. I plan to take a picture of the valley to the east of my house, so now I just need to wait for sunset.

[Clay Turtle]

yes, temperature control is a big factor. I commonly use the Universal style tank for 120-220 roll film for single sheets. You use only the bottom roller to hold the sheet against the side wall emulsion toward the center. you measure out a few mls needed for single shot {ie; roll the tank for continueous agitation) which you use hot water bath & one of those electric warmers sold as a means of brewing a cup of hot water for tea or instant coffee. You will have to keep an eye on the bath temperature, pluggin it in & out tokeep constant temperature of the bath water.

[Turner Reich]

Yea, Yea, go for the developing yourself, it's sooo cool. Won't cost an arm or let, if you don't let it, and has all of the controls you could ever want. Not that color is bad, but B&W in your own darkroom, no matter how small, is the ticket. You can do both, you don't have to give one or the other up. Good luck Zack.

[Zach In Israel]

I have a huge amount of E-6 film in the freazer (mostly 120 format). And much of what I am doing these days is Deap sky photography (mostly widefields of the milkey way) for which most of the current good films are E-6. There hasn't beena good B&W deep sky film in a while. Tech Pan worked but you had to hyper it which was a big pain. Right now I don't know of any B&W fim that doesn't have really really bad reciprocity failure (Fuji Provia has almost none)

[G Benaim]

Zach, I know you're in the boonies, but you can get E6 done for 25sh at SBY in TA, they may even have a mail service. Give them a call, or check out their website, sbycolor or somesuch. I'm in TA if you need help w deving b&w or using a view camera. Enjoy.

[Zach In Israel]

Thanks, I may take you up on that at some point, i don't have a car now, so getting to TA is a bit of a pain, and doing so with the camera and tripod even more so. On the other hand I have a two pro photographers who live locally (and both of them used to own this camera). Actually Max Richardson's book on the western wall tunels was taken on this very Sinar.

I will send the film there or to Panorama in jerusalem soonish, but it will have to wait until some cash comes in the front Door. I also have some other film that needs processing.

[Clay Turtle]

One of the nice things about developing eingle sheets is that you can shoot both siedes of a film holder then process one if it isn't right then you can push or pull process the other sheet. As you use only the volume of chemistry to process each sheet [dependent upon the number of sheets {area} kit will develope] you use fresh {active} chemistry giving more uniform processing & as the volume being maintained at contant temperature allows you to use baby bottle warmer or some othe electrical heating product {with thermostatic controls} like an electric frying pan.

Right now I don't know of any B&W fim that doesn't have really really bad reciprocity failure (Fuji Provia has almost none

And of course, you can always push b&w film like TMax or Ilford HP 4.

[Zach In Israel]

For night sky stuff pushing B&W probably won't help much, even if it does help a bit on contrast most B&W is blind to H-Alpha at 646.4nm (Deep red) Which is another thing that I want. As for night sky stuff a lot of nebulae glow pretty stronly at that line. If you look at the Orion Nebula (labeled M42 ) in this image you will see an example

This one was shot in 35mm actually

[Zach In Israel]

Here is the actuall image...
http://http://bp0.blogger.com/_jqS0V...ith_labels.jpg