I'm happy to report that I just got three boxes of IR820 in the mail. However, to date my IR experiences have been limited to some expired kodak HIE using either red 25 or 29 filters which give a strong IR effect on this film. What would you suggest I get for a filter for the efke IR820? An R72? Wratten 87C or 87? I want to get a strong IR effect.
Walter-
Just got my first box myself! I've never shot IR before and therefore will be of little help in answering any specifics. If I understand correctly, an 87C is too opaque, but that an 89B or 87 (progressively) would work well in achieving a strong effect. I just received a Cokin P007 (89B, will text but best supposedly at an ISO 3-6) and will let you know how it works out for me (compromised between cost, film speed, and effect). Good luck!
I did, however, want to add a couple of questions to yours for those out there with more experience (was going to just post these myself, but figured I'd add them to yours). First, Is there any apparent focus shift with this IR film? And second, how exactly do you meter for IR, is it similar to other B&W films (I have a Sekonic 558)? I'll meter with the above ISOs, but how do I determine where middle grey is?
Thanks in advance,
Peter
Also, has anyone washed off the antihalation backing before exposure? I've heard someone suggest this as a possible way to reproduce, to some extent, the HIE look. I can anticipate a few hassles, not the least of which is drying the stuff.
Peter, from what I've seen with kodak HIE, focus shift isn't a big deal (but you should know that I'm usually shooting wide angle, and stopped down, so I would most likely not notice it anyway). It probably would matter with narrow DOF (portrait, macro, etc). As for middle grey - I think that comes with experience. Your exposure meter isn't designed to measure for IR light through a cut-off filter, so you really won't know until you process your shot. I've burned up about 10 sheets of the kodak HIE so far and I'm starting to get an idea of where the tones will fall, but with a novel subject it's pretty hard to predict. The surprise is part of the fun.
Washing off the backing would give you the look of ir830aura which was the other version of this film that was sold under the maco name. If you do a search for Maco ir 820 aura, you should find a pdf with some examples.
I've shot a bit of this stuff in the last 3 years in 4x5. I use a b+w 89b filter and expose from 1-4 seconds @22 in sunny midday conditions. It's a very high contrast film that i certainly haven't mastered. If you want black skies with the 89b then you'll have to underexpose a bit but the shadows go to black, which is generally not much of an issue in midday when shadows aren't as prominent. I recently did some tests with 120 size to confirm my doubts before moving on to the 8x10. My tests were made here in los angeles about a month ago. I've had good results other spots with that base exposure. At least it's sold now for much les than what it was before @ $3/sheet in 4x5. Don't worry about focus shift unless your lens has the red line for it like my medium format gear. It then depends on your filter as well.
I attached a jpeg of a print from zion. Later in the day 4 seconds @22 i believe.
good luck
vinny
I've got a couple boxes of 4x5 and one box of 8x10 coming from Rob Skeoch (hey Rob, a plug for you...). I used Kodak IR 4x5 a lot for years and have never found a replacement for it. I tried Rollei's but don't want to have to use those opaque filters (I don't really like extreme infra-red) With Kodak's film I usually used a #12 or #25 filter...with the #25 going as extreme as I felt necessary. If I can get subtle infra-red using the #25, I'll be happy. And really happy if I can contact print 8x10.
I've found Kodak with a #25 almost perfect for the way I want to shoot infrared. If I can find a way to shoot this Efke IR830 that will give similar results to this HIE stuff I'll be thrilled:
Not sure whether these qualify as "extreme IR" or not, but the effect is just about right for me.
Although the choices for IR film are very limited now, knowing the cutoff points of the various filters is still helpful. For example, using a filter that has a higher cutoff point than the sensitivity of the film results in virtually no image, regardless of exposure time. As film is sensitive to wavelengths up to its rating, filters pass wavelengths at and above the rating.
IR comparison chart
Like others, I've used an 89b with the Maco 820, and was pleased with the results. I haven't had a chance to try the Efke incarnation, but it's supposed to be exactly the same.
Walter and Vinny-
Thanks, I will be predominantly shooting with wide angles and smaller aperatures as well. I hadn't really thought about this fact (relatively new to LF in general), just had been concerned about an apparent shift in focus observed with other IR films. Thanks also for the advice on exposure and will just have to initially bracket extensively and then less so as I gain a stronger grasp on how this film behaves. I live in Florida and am curious how much 'IR' I'll have relative to other parts of the world.
BTW, excellent shot Vinny! I love it!
Peter
At your latitude, you should have plenty of IR-spectrum light, Peter. Thus, your exposures may be shorter than those in more northerly latitudes. IR levels vary by time of day also, as a result of sun position and the associated atmospheric absorption.Originally Posted by PMahoney
Is there a difference between the B+W 092 and the Hoya R72 (RM72?) filters? There seems to be a pretty big price difference (B+W cheaper).
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